I do not like testors glue. [:XX]
What do you guys use/recommend? lol Please Help.
Tamiya extra thin liquid cement. Comes in a small, square bottle (about 1½ " square) with a green plastic lid that holds a fine brush end. I love the stuff.
Glues I use the most are Tenax 7R, Ambroid Pro Weld, Tamiya extra thin & Model Master Liquid Cement . Also keep a good supply of Zap-A-Gap CA.
Regards, Rick
Give me Tenax or give me death…well, using it will probably kill me so never mind…
Another vote for Tamiya Extra Thin!
Spit? [prte]
Seriously, most solvent cements are variations on methylene chloride (dichloromethane), sometimes with other solvents to slow the evaporation rate. You can probably get methylene chloride from a local plastic fabrication company, probably sold as Safeway’s SC-125.
One that hasn’t been mentioned is Weld-On 3. Stinks (you should never be able to smell it anyway) but a very good solvent cement for styrene.
What I currently use is a mix of 1 part toluol (toluene) to 9 parts methylene chloride. Evaporation rate is about the same as Weld-On 3. The reason for making my own blend is that it’s much cheaper, and I’ll never run out.
Regardless of what you use, adequate ventilation is an absolute requirement.
I’m fine with Testor’s Liquid Cement… Been using that (and the Orange Tube) all my modeling life… Pink label liquid and Model Master (black squeeze bottle) , both have worked fine for me… I’ve tried that Tennax stuff, but it was a bit too “hot” for my liking, not to mention that the cost is a bit much for a bottle that I’ll usually forget to screw the cap back onto and it evaporates bfore I remember again… I use that, plus plain ol’ CA Super Glue that I buy at the supermarket on the cards for “4 for 1.99”
What’s your problem with Testor’s, if I may inquire?
I use the regular Tamiya glue (orange label). I also have plenty of Hobby Lobby"s CA on hand.
Art
I use Plastruct Bondene mostly.
Which Testors glue are you using and what is the problem?
i’ve been using the same container of model master glue in the triangle shaped bottle for two years now. i love the stuff.
Everything on my shelves was assembled using Orange tube Testors. I have no desire to change. Like ‘Hans von Hammer’ asked: What do you not like about Testors ?
[dto:] That, and the Testors triangle shaped bottle(orange label) and CA. Never a problem.
tamiya extra thin is a must! and of course superglue lol
Well It may be my own fault, but that glue has little strings come off it when i use it. Like spider webs. Very thin.
That is why i dislike it.
Are zap a cap and CA the same thing? I dont know what CA stands for. Thank you guys for all this info, this forum rocks.
Well It may be my own fault, but that glue has little strings come off it when i use it. Like spider webs. Very thin.
That is why i dislike it.
Are zap a cap and CA the same thing? I dont know what CA stands for. Thank you guys for all this info, this forum rocks.
Zap-A-Gap is a type of CA (CyanoAcrylate) from a company called Pacer. Cyanocrylate glue is the generic “super glue”. They have different levels of viscosity from thin for general gluing to thicker for gap filling applications.
If you are using the Testors glue from the red or blue tube that isn’t that great of a glue. A liquid cement is better. No “strings” attached. It “welds” the plastic together rather than making it stick together. Testors makes liquid cement as well. It is in a diamond shaped container with a red label. They also have it in their “Model Master” series in an all black diamond container.
I hope this helps.
is the red label the same as the black labeled mm? i’ve a sneaking suspicion that it is, and costs half. [:S]
If you like Tenax 7R and find it in any hobby shop buy it as it appears that the company which makes it is now out of business. I have 12 jars left and will have to locate a similar glue when it is gone. Aaron Skinner of FSM has confirmed this to me in a private e-mail.
No, it isn’t… It’s much thinner, by about twice, and “hotter” than Testor’s tube cement, but it’s not as thin as the pink-lable liquid, which is almost as thin as water and a bit hotter than the black Model Master cement…
Gordon, if you’re still using the Testor’s Tube cement for other than applictaions to parts that need some lag-time for adjustment, you’re gonna have to consoder trading up… I’d really recommend that you try the Testor’s Model Master and bottled Liquid Cements… The needle applicator of the Model Master brand make for really precise gluing, and the liquid is great for getting parts to set up almost immediately, without the troubles that superglue/CA gives…
CA/Superglue has it’s uses, especially for resin/metal parts (regular model cements won’t work on them), and gluing painted parts to painted surfaces (like pioneer tools to AFV decks), and also some gap-filling uses, but unless you do a lot of that, the “Hobby-shop” brands are a bit expensive for wht you get… The “super market cards” of 4 for 1.99 tubes will last months and also allows you to only have a little of the stuff open at a time, unlike the big bottles of Zap-A-Gap and the like…
Another thing you might want to try is to lightly sand the surfaces to be mated (like wing & fuselage halves) before you apply the cement… It really speeds up the bond… Also, get a couple of fine-point brushes for applying liquid cements… The brushes in the bootle are too clunky and big for precise work, and you don’y have to worry about cleaning them, the cement evaporates fast enough that the bristles won’t go hard on ya…
I have been using the Testors liquid cement in the glass bottle for years for all major assemblies and the MM liquid cement in the triangular (Diamond shaped?) plastic bottle when something called for more viscosity. No offense to anybody, but I stopped using the squeeze tube glue when I was a kid. Whatever works best for you should be your choice. And of course CA when needed for metal and resin parts.
The liquid in the bottle is nice as you align the two parts and touch the cement to one end and it will actually be drawn into the seam like a wick. With practice you can actually squeeze it to cause a bit of the dissolved plastic to ooze out and once dried, you trim this away for a seam that needs almost no filling if the parts are lined up correctly. Watch that wick action as the cement can be drawn into areas you don’t want such as under your finger! You get to leave a nice permenant signature to your work as your fingerprint! (Ok, yes this happened to me more than once!)
As to the Testors vs. MM cement in the triangular (diamond?) plastic bottles, the big difference I have found is the MM has a metal needle.The plastic tip of the Testors plugs often, but the metal tip rarely clogs on me. I have been using the same bottle for almost 10 years.