I have gone through many disaster canopies. Once when I used cement, it frosted up the canopy! White Glue seems to not lessen the clarity of the canopy, but it seems to have a long drying time, which I hate. In your opinion, what is the best thing to fix canopies in place on models? Thanks.[8D][:o)]
I find jewelers watch crystal cement to work the best. Dries perfectly clear and seems stronger than white glue.
Here is their website, just type in crystal cement in the search.
Add another use to the list for Future. I tried it on a canopy as a temporary adhesive and had a bit of resistance getting the canopy off. So it dawned on me to use it as a canopy adhesive. Great! no side effects like clouding and good adherence.
I half-expect to oneday hear that Future has been found to cure cancer. Seems like it does everything else!!
Tony Ryan
I prefer Testors Clear Parts cement.
I use Testors clear coat, it hold great and you cant get much clearer.
I also like testors clear part cement. Nevr had anything bad happen with it.
I use a dilute white glue, like Elmer’s for most of my canopies, although I, too, have discovered that a judicious application of Future can work in a pinch.
Theres stuff called Formula 560 I"The worldsbest Canopy Glue I purchased a2oz bottle for $3.59 from Hobby Town ,You can do a bunch of canopys for that
Geeh, that’s a cool idea! How long did it take to harden?
Noel
Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Best thing you can use hands down. Dries quick, wont fog windows and you can even make windows with it such as aircraft windows on a 747.
Future can be used to attach some canopies and clear parts. I have even used it to attach certain pe parts. Testors Clear Parts Cement is excellent. Provides a super strong bond and dries crystal clear.
You have your choice- fog, strength, setting time. No glule I know of is ideal in that it doesn’t fog, but gives a really strong bond and dries or sets quickly. All CAs can fog, depending on phase of moon. White glues and such do not fog, but lack strength and take a long time to set. Epoxy doesn’t fog, does give a very strong bond, but even five minute stuff really needs to cure for about twenty four hours (about same as white glues and derivatives) to maximum strength. White glue is certainly easier to use than epoxy. Strength is not essential for canopies- if it comes loose you can glue it back on. But for windows that have to be applied from inside of fuselage before closing same, strength is essential. If it pops in after fuselage join that is a disaster! Some folks have suggested Loctite’s GO@ for transparencies. After having bonds made with it fail, I did some tests on it and couldn’t get it to be a strong bond. Went to the loctite web site for GO2 and it specifically says “not for styrene.” Bond strength seems to be about the same as white glue and similar.
There is “Gator’s Grip Hobby Glue”.
here is a review: modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/modules.php
I use styrene cement, when I use a kit’s canopy, or white glue. I have never had a canopy frost on my, from styrene cement. CA glue can trigger frosting, because of the vapor given off when it cures. I’ve never used CA glue for attaching clear parts.
White glue has an advantage of filling gaps as necessary, too.
I’m with Annonymous here, I use Formula 560 and find I use it for more all the time.
Phil
I’ve been using Bob Smiths “Super Gold+” it’s a foam safe orderless that specifically says no frosting on clear styrene. And it doesn’t. I’ve been using it on internal windows. I also use Micro scale’s krystal clear for attaching external canopies and windscreens.
John