…the double-action airbrush that’s easiest to COMPLETELY field strip and to clean everywhere. By everywhere I mean you get get to every tight spot and every narrow hole and scrub it clean.
I’ve been airbrushing for about 8 years now and I’ve gone through probably 4 airbrushes.
After a few models painted, all airbrushes experienced the same flow issues-the flow of the paint/air spray got progressively weaker to the point where it was no longer possible to shoot paint in a steady, nice stream. Apparently there was build-up of gunk in the internal workings and shooting thinner through the airbrush and casual cleaning was not enough to get a vigorous spray pattern again. Oh, the airbrush will shoot acetone beautifully, producing a beautiful plume, but anything thicker than acetone and you’re screwed. And I’ve always considered myself somebody who takes good care of his airbrushes.
Shooting thinner through the airbrush and casual dis-assembly/cleaning helped the problem somewhat, but the airbrush never again shot paint like it did when it was brand new.
Please enlighten me which double-action airbrush is the easiest to take apart and to clean thoroughly and I will consider it for my next brush.
Right now my Peak C-5 is in pieces soaking in a jar full of brake fluid. I’m gonna let it sit there for the next few days. But if this doesn’t work, I will probably need a new airbrush.
I don’t know much about the Peak, or what other airbrushes you have owned. But, the Badger Patriot is the easiest double action brush to clean that I have come across. A lot of airbrushes have a narrow channel between the needle seal and bowl where paint can build up. In the Patriot, the needle bearing is very close to the bowl, and easy to clean. The nozzle is big enough to handle easily and just pops out. If you can’t keep a Patriot clean, you’re doing something wrong.
Maybe your nozzle or needle is just worn out. Paint is somewhat abrasive, and they do wear. You might try just replacing them. It’s not a bad idea to have a spare anyway. If the Peak has those tiny o-rings in the head, that might be the problem too.
The Peak C-5 is another good quality clone of the Japanese general purpose airbrush. Same design as Rich AB-300, Iwata HP-C or Olympos HP-100C. The Grex XG is another. The Peak probably has rubber o-ring needle packing, so leaving it in brake fluid isn’t recommended. I’ve owned them all, and never had any real problem keeping them clean. I used to tear them down completly, but has even stopped doing that. With proper cleaning procedure, they should be manageable for anyone. After you finish your painting session: • Pour out all paint leftovers, and clean out as much as possible with thinner of choice and a brush and q-tip. Cup and nozzle cap. • Spray thinner until clear. Cycle the mechanism several times. • Backflush with thinner until clear. • Repeat these two steps a couple of times, replacing the thinner as it gets dirty. • Remove the needle and clean it if necessary. • If you feel like it, flush and backflush again. Doing this, I havn’t had to disassemble any of my airbrushes the last years. Another trick is to wax the airbrush and it’s parts with silicon free car wax. Both lubricates and makes the paint less prone to stick to the metal surfaces.
One of the things I like about my H&S Infinity is how easy it is to break down and clean. Like you, I learned it was best to break an airbrush down completely and thoroughly clean between every color change— I use flushing with alcohol or laquer thinner depending on the type of paint, and clean the entire needle path with small brushes. The Infinity has removable color cups, and a nozzle/nozzle cap assembly that can be removed easily by hand without the need for tiny wrenches or special tools, so it only takes me 6 minutes ± to break everything down, clean and reassemble. I haven’t used a whole lot of different airbrushes, but I have used a Paashe, a Badger, and 3 Iwata’s before I got the Infinity, and I don’t use any of the others anymore. Ease of cleaning is only one of the reasons.
I guess that I would not be using the airbrush much if I have to “break an airbrush down completely and thoroughly clean between every color change”.
It is not necessary to do that with my Iwata HP-CS. I flush clean in between colors. A back flushing and careful wiping of the needle at the end of each day is all it needs. Besides, it minimize wear and tear of the airbrush too.
I’ve used the “abbreviated” cleaning that you describe (I have the same Iwata), and while it is expedient I believe it still leaves paint residue in the needle path to some degree, which I would just as soon avoid. Maybe being a bit too careful, I got into the habit of breaking everything down— and it was a pain in the ass— until I got the Infinity. It’s so simple (and faster) to breakdown and clean, I just do it now as a matter of course. I think one of the reasons H&S made the Infinity so easy to take apart is to accommodate the interchangable needle/nozzle sets which range from .15mm to .60mm.
I love my Iwata eclipse hp-cs. Granted is my first and only air brush so I have no way to compare it to others but it was very easy to learn to use and easy to clean. John
Sorry for replying to an old thread, but I use a Badger Patriot 105 and it is super-easy to clean, not to mention being a damn fine tool to boot. I can spray damn near anything through it and it has become a valuable tool in my arsenal. I was a single-action guy (Paasche-H) before getting the Badger and I use to think I’d never buy a double-action, but after using the Badger for a year now I have to say that it far surpasses my Paasche-H in every way.
Ease of cleaning is why I will be replacing my Badger 200 (SA) that recently died of old age (it was over forty years old). Even though I have a 150, the 200 was so easy to strip for a thorough cleaning that I loved using it for any job that didn’t really require a DA.
I agree in every way. I’m currently looking for another A/B to do fine lines, and figure it would probably be easiest to get another Badger with a fine tip.
I have the Badger 100LG, with F- M - L needle/nozzle sizes, the 100G, (which is the small cup for very small jobs,) and the Patriot 105. All do a fine job, quick and easy to clean. I think gravity fed brushes are the easiest and fastest to clean.
My Iwata is a bit more “fiddly,” due to the smaller component sizes, but still a fine AB.
I like my Paasche VL.With the #3 top it can do fine cammo to spraying large models with ease.Easy to clean and easy to find parts .Michael s and Pat Cattons carries most common parts so if is Sunday and the hobby shops are closed you can get what you need and crank up the compressor.
Don’t know why we Paasche users are the minority Philo426. I’ve pushed so much paint and ink thru my VL over the years that it should be in the AB graveyard, but it still works fine. Sure, I’ve replaced needles and tips and even the air valve. That’s the case with any tool.
I also enjoy my “toddler” Talon (it’s only a few years old) but sprays fine line to broad coverage, cleans up easily and has good balance. I also have a Badger 200G which works well sometimes and has fussy little teflon seals, so it doesn’t see much work.
I know that most of the Forum regulars are loyal to other brands, and I respect their preferences. Just wanted to chime in with my experience while we’re enjoying this topic once again.
I bought a Paasche H back in 1988 and I’ve used it to paint over 40 models in a variety of camo and natural metal finishes. With a lot of experience and finesse, one can achieve some fine results. But, that said, it does have its limits. A dear friend gave me his Paasche type V about 20 years ago but I could never get it to run right.
A while back, I bought a new Sotar AB. I’ve not used it yet, in fact it sort of intimidates me.[:D] The Model H is just so damned simple and robust, while that Sotar looks to be quite delicate and complex. Have any of you used a Sotar, and do you have any advice/suggestions for it?