…Does anyone have a successful way of removing Testors liquid glue smudges from the wings of their model airplanes? I have been priming over them and just trying to avoid making them in the first place, but I always seem to end up with 1 or 2 smudges…
…Thanks in advance Bill.
this may help nay not try useing 1000 grit wet . mask off the area and wet sand lightlythen prime over it and finish you paint job.
Glen S
Glen’s right. That’s the only way I’ve been successful at removing glue smudges.[:)]
Light sanding & finish up with a polishing stick is the only way to remove the smudges. The glue has etched into the surface of the plastic.
Regards, Rick
Try Weld-on #3 or Tenax instead of Testors liquid glue. Testors is great for attaching parts where you need time to position the part, but it dries too slowly for most of the general construction. The slow drying time gives it time to etch the plastic. The other glues dry quicker and do less damage to the plastic. rangerj
Weldon 3 is only aviable in large quantites from plastic supply stores here-but it’s aviable at greatmodels-http://www.greatmodels.com/ but if you order, expect to wait a long time before you get it.
[#ditto]
since going to Ambroids (similar to Tenax) those messy finger prints (no matter how careful you are) are a thing of the past…
Ambroids/Tenax just make a glossy sheen on the surface they touch… and as long as you don’t get it near your fingers while applying, within a second to a couple of seconds it is dry to touch… versus the 30 seconds to a minute for conventional cements…
Hobby Lobby even has it… it’s in their locked up glass case with the models… or your LHS should have one or the other or both…
it is also VERY good for setting your fuselage halves together with very little over lap in the seams… because it dries so quick, just line up your seam as best you can, brush or use a capillary dispenser to apply the welder… and BAM!!! it’s dry… on to the next section of seam , or to the other side where you can align the seam there too… gone are the days of 3D seam drying… this way you can do a small section at a time and make em ALL match up!!!
you still have to hit your seams with finishing sandpaper… but that’s it… no sanding off cement/plastic where it pooled or caused a lump… these welders only leave a patina…