what is the purpose of, and how do you properly use testors dullcote with an airbrush?
Dullcote is used as a final sealant over decals to make the area flat again and seal the decals. You use it like any other painty through an airbrush; thinned to about the consistency of milf.
thanks arty. milf huh? wonder what’s on your mind [:-^] could i use it as a final sealer also?
yep, it’ll also help to seal in pigments. It can also tone down the brightness on some of the shinny parts of your tank. ally it slowly in lite coats as it can get a little cloudy if overdone!
Dullcoat is made of a laquer base and fine suspended particles (basically talcum powder) that deflects the light making a surface appear matte/flat. If sprayed on too heavily or not properly thinned, it will produce the cloudy effect that IYAAYAS mentions. I typically just buy the rattlecan stuff and apply that as a final sealing coat but it does have a tendency to make pigment coats “disappear”, not sure if the AB applied stuff produces a similar result or not. Also, do not spray it over clear parts unless they are masked as it will cause them to fog/craze and defeat the purpose of them being clear in the first place.
well i bought testors dullcote which i would have to thin to airbrush, but i also bought the rattle can, i think it was floquil lusterluss. is that the same thing? i had a really bad experience using tamiya flat base, my model came out all cloudy and snow like, i really wanted to cry. its still not the same even though i painted over it. so i am really scared to use it. i would just have to apply a little more pigments, to conpensate for it.
Tamiya flat base is totally different, it is meant to be mixed with pigment, not used as a final coat. It will normally dry white. That won’t happen with lacquer.
[:D] What do you thin dullcoat with? lacquer thinner?
i think you thin it with mineral spirits. but don’t hold me accountable on it. i’m a newbie here. you better get a second opinion or get a deffinate answer first.
Should be M-i-l-k, milk. [:I] And yes, I thin it with lacquer thinner. As another note, the Testors rattle-can Dulcote is really semi-gloss. The one in the bottle comes out dead flat. I always use the bottle over the can. I don’t know about Floquil though, never used it.
yeah i have the one in the bottle. its really thick, looks like glue. and about the floquil rattle can, i’ll have to try it on a scrap before i will use it. rather not mess up a model when i don’t know how to use it yet. thanks arty
I use regular general purpose hardware store paint thinner with no problems.
Roosterhair, stay away from that FLOQUIL stufF!!!If I recall correctly, Floquil products have an ingredient (toluene maybe!!!) that is designed to “bite” into the plastic; maybe because they have a railroad line that’s used with metal-bodied model trains?? it’s ok to use over floquil paints ONLY(!!) but anything else and it will craze your paint–that heartbreaking milky haze!![:(]
thanks for the heads up. appreciate it. consider it gone, hehe.
Testor’s actually makes 3 different rattlecan coats in their Model Master line. Gloss, Satin (semi-gloss), and Lusterless (flat). In their standard line (just to be confusing) they have 2, Gloss and Flat, and those may produce a different kind of finish. I use the Model Master Lusterless and it’s dead flat, absolutely no shine. I’ve compared it to their bottle Dullcoat Lacquer and can’t see any difference on the finish. For me, the no-hassle of the rattlecan wins out vs. having to break out the AB, worry about thinning it just right, etc. but that’s just my personal choice.
I guess where I get them (usually Hobby Lobby since I never seem to find a good hobby shop around military posts) only carries the standard line. I have only seen 1260 Dullcote (actually aforementioned semi-gloss) and 1261 Glosscote. Guess I need to look for their MM rattlecans. Thanks.
Gino,
The MM Lusterless (Flat) is listed as 1960, the MM Gloss is 1961, not sure about the Satin but it’s probably 1962 or 1959…but then Testor’s has been known to do crazy things with their catalogue numbers before so it could be something radically different. [(-D]
yeah that’s the one i have. lusterluss. so hopefully that will work. i’ll still try it on scrap first.