Do testors dullcote tend to whiten when sprayed? Last time I used it, it whitened my model.Maybe I used the wrong thinner?
First…what did you use for thinner? Dullcote is a laquer product.
Second…it should not have whitened your model.
Third…There’s no advantage to using a laquer for a clear cote that I see. Acyrlic clears are easier and safer to use, and IMHO look just as good if not better. I use Polyscale flat and gloss exclusively. Great stuff.
Jerry
Andrew,
Testers dullcote is NOT difficult to use. I prefer laquer sealers over acyrlics anyday!! Getting back to the original question, no, the dullcote should not whitened over time. I have been using Testers dullcote for as long as I can remember and have not had a finish that has whitened yet. First off, when you thin the dullcote for spaying, use only laquer thinner, that will assure no adverse effects.
Hope this helps.
Tom
Thanks guys.I think I was using the wrong thinner. Regards Andrew
Tom, chill baby chill. My intention was not to berate anyone who uses dullcote. It’s a very good product. As for the ease of use, Hmmmm…obviously we have someone who has had a problem. In this case Andrew. Andrew must have missed the fact that the bottle is labled laquer, and the incorrect thinner was used. Unfortunate, but these things do happen. It’s a shame that someone spends hours and days building a model, only to ruin the finished product when applying the final clear coat. Like it or not, Dullcoat laquer is a very aggressive coating that when used incorrectly ( wrong thinner, too heavy a coat) can and will cause damage. It will eat any type of top coat, enamel, acyrlic, or laquer. It can also etch bare plastic. Go ahead, shoot a heavy coat of Dullcoat on bare plastic and see whay happens. For the life of me, I don’t see the advantage of using a product that has the potential of such adverse results. Not to mention toxic fumes. Polyscale, on the other hand, has no learning curve whatsoever. No thinner needed. Stir it up, and shoot your model, clean up with water. Done…beautifull.!!
If I ruffled your feathers, please accept my sincere appology.
Cheers,
Jerry
Stop risking your models with the Testors product. Too heavy a coat will indeed whiten your model, it can eat decals and cause paints to bubble. I used to use it but gave it up for Polly Scale clear flat. A much safer and easier to use dull coat. I think it produces a better finish also. Micro flat is another good dull coat but leans a little more towards a satin finish in my opinion.
Polly Scale clear flat, huh? I’ll give it a shot as well. I like that dead flat that Testors Dullcote provides. But have been waiting for the big disappointment to happen one day.~ ruined model becouse of Dullcote. Been lucky so far… but also have been looking to switch over to something else. Thanks! Craig
Did you use a rattle can? If so-i’ve seen the whitening before. Agitate well and test any new can on spare parts. It seems to happen only occasionally.
I’ve used Pollyscale flat, and I never have liked it. I have bought multiple bottles, and the paint turns white after it dries when brushed on. I use MM enamels and Testors Dullcote/Glosscote and prefer them over everything else.
Jerry,
My intension was not to come across rough in any way, just to merely state that I never had any problems with Testors dullcote over the years. Yes, we had an individual who had some trouble with the product. I am sorry to hear that. I know what it is like to work weeks on a project only to have something near the end of the project go wrong and have to start over again. When Testors dullcote is used as it was intended, (no fault of Andrews) it is a safe product to use. I have tried using acrylics in the past, and I have not had good luck with them, that does not mean that they are not good products, because they are, I have seen first hand some models that no doubt would win awards because the finish was that good (with acrylics). I just prefer enamals, thats all.
Tom
Hey Tom, no sweat. That’s what is great about this forum. We can debate and exchange experiences about the different products we use, and the end result is that we are all better modelers for it. The bottom line is what works for you, is right for you. As for my prefered use of paints. This is what works for me. I’m definitely not just an acrylic guy.
Color coats…MM enamels exclusively. I don’t like acrylics for spraying airframes. Too grainy.
NMF…Laquers (Alclad) over MM gloss black enamel base coat
Clear coats…Poly scale sprayed lightly, not brushed
CP detail colors…MM enamels or acyrlics or whatever is on hand
Also I’d like to add that I don’t really like Tamiya acrylics. They spray great, but don’t brush well. They tend to get gummy when brushed. It’s probably a thinner issue.
For me it only takes one bad experience with a product, that makes me change to something else, and yes, I’ve had my share. So what to use… what ever is your personal preference, and have confidence in.
Ryan…E-mail me, and I’ll buy all your poly scale clears
Cheers,
Jerry
Agreed that it all comes down to what you are comfortable with.
For me, it is Testors MM Enames exclusively for airbrushing and brush painting. I also use Testors Glosscote and Dulcote exclusively.
I personally can’t stand acrylics. Don’t fall for the whole environmentally safer BS either. Not really and issue with me. The earth was here long before us, and will still be here long after we are all gone. Furthermore, we as modelers don’t use enough of the paints and thinners to be a health hazard anyways. My 2 cents.
What I suppose happened that caused the “whitening” was humidity. In the Testors technical manual, I seem to remember it warning that spraying their laquer clear coats can sometiomes cause blushing, and/ or a white film to appear on the finish surface if sprayed in areas with high humidity. It has happened to me as well. In my case I was airbrushing in my very humid basement on a hot August day. I solved the problem by placing a dehumidifier in my basement area and haven’t had a problem since. Not sure what your spraying environment is like but this could be the cause. Hope this helps!
I used Testors Dullcote once (emphasis on “Once”) about 25 years ago. One time was enough for me. I’m with Swanny and the others, I’ll stick with my acrylics and be happy.
Ahhh …the voice of reason. Thanks Scott.
Jerry
Bushed on? I have very nice results with it when i put it through my 155 and hp-bcs. perhaps the problem is in the brush painting. I find that the tip dry is a bit excessive, but it can be dealt with. I use polly scale clear flat exclusively for my flat coating.
I’ve used this plenty without a problem. I airbrush it straight from the bottle with no thinning. Need a little extra pressure because of the thickness. I keep the coats light…
Humidity definately plays a part in the whitening of laquers. I use to build and fly R/C scale aircraft for a total of about 14 years starting back in the mid 70’S (showing my age). We would spray all our planes with automotive laquers. We would have to wait for a dry day or would have to add a retarter to the paint to slow down the drying process.
I used Testors Dullcote and Glosscote out of the can at first, and then airbrushed for several of my first models. It worked great - never had it whiten on me - until I used it on my MIrage 2000. It didn’t whiten, but it puckered and lifted most of the decals off. The Mirage was the same manufacturer as most of the previous models, with the same brand of decals, so I don’t know what posessed it to eat them. Since then I use Gunze/Sangyo aqueous clear flat, or “Mr. Topcoat” in a spray can when I can’t find the other. For the gloss side of things, I use “Future.” I prefer the flat look of Dullcote, but I can live with Gunze if it doesn’t eat my decals. I think Future does a better job than Glosscote, and it’s easier to clean. I still prefer MM or other enamel paints.
I normaly take some of the voices of reason here if they were written out the modelers bible. Especially Swanny’s That said though, Ive used Testors laquer dull coat on my last few models all with great success. I would like to try some of the products Matts listed but Im kinda limited on what I can use because of where Im at. The time Ive used dull coat only once was a failure and that was experimenting with it and brushing it on. I now use it unthinned, and applied with an airbrush. I dont think Ive ever had the problem with the decals because Ive always sealed my decals with Future before applying the dull coat. Applying the dull coat to clear parts will have a “whitening” effect. Thats not a problem with the product, its just doing its job. Hope that helps some.