Whenever I try to brush testors dull coat (acyrlic) onto the Citadel acrylics it begins to remove and blend with the paint I coating over. By the way, the paint was given around 12 hours to dry
I would give it 48 hours to dry and then test it on a sample.
If that doesn’t work then the two may be incompatible brushed on.
Mike
I believe even 48 hours won’t even be enough my friend. Testors Dull Coat is a strong solvent laquer. It’s best to spray on the Dull coat with an airbrush but if you can’t use a very soft wide red sable hair No.4 brush and gently brush it on. I’ve had that happen years ago using Tamiya paints that were allowed to dry for a week! With laquer-based clear coats try to think of it as laquer thinner with flattening or a gloss agent in them![:O]
Greg,
The reason I said give it 48 hours was because he said this:
“Whenever I try to brush testors dull coat (acyrlic)”
I was assuming he was using an acrylic dull coat, but now as I read it a second time I didn’t think that Testors makes an acrylic dull coat, do they?
Mike
HMM, well i do know it has the red “Acryl” on the label. The product might be called clear flat or clear coat
Now that changes things. [;)]
If it is the Acryl line then it is acrylic. You originally said it was Dullcoat which is a lacquer-based clear that would definitely attack acrylic if brushed on.
Mike
Woops, your right the man did type acrylic…my mistake. 
Greg,
Since he put an acrylic over another acrylic then I assume the two are incompatible I guess. I have heard this about another brand on this forum but I can’t remember what paint it was.
Mike
How about the stuff in the spray can? (testors dull cote)
If you apply laquers from an airbrush or aerosol can, applying several thin coats, you can get the laquer to stay on with out damaging the surface. I’ve got a couple of models downstairs that have been airbrushed with Floquil RailRoad paints applied directly on to the styrene which turned out very well. Just have to practice to figure out exactly how to do it.
Slight off-subject, but close enough…I use MM enamel and was wondering what would be the best dull coat to use? I also use Future before decalling. Oh, yeah, strictly airbrush for final painting…
I strictly use MM Lauqur dull coat its in a bottle has to be thinned with thinner works great.
You could try flattening Future. Use Tamiya X-21 and mix it with the Future and, depending on the ratios, you can get a satin to a dead flat finish!
Here’ s latest on my clear-coating venture…I decided to try a satin finish for my P-40B. So, after future/decals, I misted on a couple of very light coats of Microscale Satin (about $2.50 a bottle) and am very pleased with the results. I’ll post pics soon. Anyway, thanks for all your help, I am continueously learning new things from the members here.