Twice I ordered this cement from Amazon. Both times the glue arrived almost semi-solid. I tried to get it to remix but it’s to solid. What happened?
You know it’s basically Elmers white glue?
I think you are right. I wonder if it froze during shipment.
I just picked up and tried Pacer’s Formula 560 canopy glue, and like it so far. Pretty much a thicker version of Testors and.Elmers
Probably went bad because most modelers don’t buy it because it’s just expensive white glue.
Hi ;
That’s why I would like everyone out there to use ALEENS craft glue . It dries clear , is a little thicker than Elmers and you can get it at Hobby Lobby anytime .
[^o)]…kinda.
It dries nice and shiney though…good for instrument “glass”.
I bought a bottle of it years ago (7-8)…still good! About all I use it for anymore is on the IP’s, and for tacking on main canopies for painting.
I use it a lot and is much stronger than Elmer’s drying clear as glass. Alene’s is pretty good too and stronger than Elmer’s.
Likewise… Micro Krystal Klear is closer to Elmer’s White Glue.
As far as the mixing/separation problem goes, more and more frequently over the past several years, I run into quality control issues with Testors Paints and Glues.
I have solved the clear parts cement problerm (glues that are strong enough etch/fog the plastic) with the new UV hardening cements. These glues come packaged with a UV laser (may well be a UV LED, don’t know for sure. Anyway, the stuff does not damage the plastic in any way, but is quite strong. There have been several threads on this stuff in the tools forum.
You do need access to the glue line, so that the UV light can enter the glue line. If the part is recessed in such a way that the light cannot get to the glue line it will not work.
Elmer’s isn’t good for creating glass, but can be used to glue a canopy in place without fogging the glass. I use Future to gloss up instrument panel glass. I have used Future to attach clear parts, like army Jeep windshields to the frame. It holds well as long as you don’t handle the item (like raising or lowering the windshield).
I use BSI Foam Cure. It’s almost an epoxy, and dries crystal clear. The nice thing is that if you put it on both surfaces to be joined, stick the parts together and then pull them apart and let them air dry for about 10 minutes, you can stick them back together and the adhesive has enough tack to it that you don’t have to worry about the halves falling apart or shifting while you handle it and tackle a few next steps in the build process. Hobby Lobby always has it in the modeling section and can be had for about $3 with the 40% off coupon.