I have not used Testor’s acrylic clears, but Tamiya acrylic clears do not require thinning. If the Testor’s clears seem very thin, then no additional thinning would be required.
Also, I would not put “Future” in an airbrush, as it dries quickly and gets rather sticky in the process. It brushes on nicely and is self-levelling.
I use “Windex” for cleaning up after Future, and removing “OOPS” blunders before it dries…you can also use water with a little ammonia in it, same thing. I would also use Windex to clean an airbrush after spraying Future.
I’ve never used Testors clear acrylics but I like Tamiya’s range of acrylic clears personally, so never looked further. I can’t imagine Testors clear are too hard to get along with but as I said I’ve never used them is all.
Future/Pledge Floor Care needs no thinning. It cleans up easy in water with a little dish soap in it or most acrylic airbrush cleaners. But do it right away before it dries in the brush. Then rinse with plain water. Very easy to clean imo. That said, Tamiyas gloss is a higher gloss and Future has no matt finish so those are things to consider.
I don’t use Testers acrylic clear either but whatever you use, test it on scrap first. Get the process down before you put it on the model. My two cents.
I didn’t know Tamiya offered acrylic clear. I just found X-22, but you mentioned ‘range’ of acrylic clears. Do they have other finishes (i.e. matte, semi-gloss, etc) or are you refering to the translucent “clear” colors?
I’ve yet to find an acrylic clear that airbrushes very well, is why I ask. I think the best I’ve found so for is Alcald’s Aqua Gloss. Do you think Tamiya is better?
They have a flat base you can add to the clear clear and tone it down so to speak…
But the range I was speaking of was the colored clear. I’m currently working with red and blue and intermixing them for different tones. They are acrylic, for highest gloss thin with lacquer thinner vs X-22 thinner. Tamiya is funny stuff, it’s like some kind of hybrid, it doesn’t even smell like other acrylics but yet cleans up with water, alcohol, lacquer thinner, you name it just about.
I see. thaks for the clarification. I’ve tried those and haven’t really found a use for them. Found them too translucent, requiring too many coats. Just my [2cnts] that nobody asked for.
Greg - The Tamiya X-22 and their flat clear I think are the only ones, there is no semi gloss clear Tamiya that I can locate. Adding the flat base works, but it takes some time to find the right flat base amount to add.
For flat semi gloss clear finishes, I continue to rely on Testors old Flat Coat Clear, square bottles, cut about 20% with Testors Gloss Coat, a few test sprays will quickly let you know the right amount. I don’t know how much other guys thin it, but I use DuPont lacquer thinner, at about 50/50.
I have a Testors clear sytem, “Custom Enamel Clear,” Part numbers 2015, 2016, 2017, and 2018. Thinner, gloss, semi and flat. Lays down some really nice finishes, once you spend enough time to find the right thinning ratio, (bring a lunch.) I found it altogether too touchy for steady use by me.
If you want I’ll send it to you, to add to the Valley Joe collection of unwanteds. ):>(
I was really just curious about acrylic clears. For solvent based clear coat, I’m still a big fan of the Alclad Klear Kotes. No-fuss airbrushing neat, quick drying, and durable.
I use Testors Acrylic clears almost exclusively now and find them easy to use and get great results. I don’t know if they need to be thinned, but, by habit, I thin them using Testors Acrylic thinner #50496 at roughly a 60/40 ratio (60 acrylic/40 thinner). I premix my thinner in a small squirt bottle that has 5% (just a couple of drops) of Liquitex Flow-Aid added to it. I shoot it through an Iwata Eclipse Hp-bcs (bottom feed) using 15 psi. When I’m done painting, I use regular Lacquer Thinner (from Lowes in the gallon can) to clean the airbrush. When finished cleaning, I give the needle a dose of Iwata super lube. I use Testors Model Master Flat Clear #4636, Semi-Gloss Clear #4637, and Gloss Clear #4638 all as described above. I occasionaly use the same above with my Badger Patriot 105 or Badger 200.
As for Future, I quit using it except to dip canopys, but when I was airbrushig it, I thinned it about 60/40 as above with denatured alcohol. To make it work for me, I had to use my Paasche H airbrush. I could’t make it work consistently with my Badger Patriot 105 or my Iwata Eclipse. Clean the airbrush with windex with ammonia and then water rinse.
This has been my experience. I use Testors Model Master Enamels to paint my models.
I’ve attached a photo but you have to click on the little square at the top that says Acrylic Clear.
As I have never sprayed a clearcoat before, I have yet another series of questions:
What are some things I should look for while spraying to know I am getting good coverage? Is there anything wrong with, after putting the decals onto a gloss surface, then covering them with clear flat instead of gloss, then flat?
As far as the B-1B goes, I got a nice coat of gunship gray on it on sunday (I think), and have not been able to get back to it, as I have had other things on my plate. sorry for no pictures, maybe one day I will sit down and figure it out, but just have not had the time.
Thank you for replies filled with tips/suggestions.
Your spray should look wet when it hits the surface and it dries quickly. Take your time, but keep the spray moving so that it won’t puddle.
The Heller F-104G in the picture had a coat of clear gloss applied so that I could put on the decals and then it was sprayed with semi-gloss for the final finish.