Im looking for mirror finish. maybe my airbrushing technique is flawed, I run 3:1 paint to thinner, and 30psi. it goes on fine, but when Im done I always get orange peel of varying intensities, and sometimes Ill get little cracks; almost looks like finger prints, but it isnt touched.
Ive tried sanding every which way, the pads, the fabric/paper. it always ends up either missing the edges completely, or rubs the paint off the edges. I tried a rubbing compound last night, and it worked well I thought; maybe a second coat would be enough, but after 1 polish; buff, wax. it is mostly smooth, but not crystal clear.
I think I need a polishing cloth, not a regular wash cloth; but what polishing compound and wax should I be using? I used bondo polish, and turtle wax. I have some polymer stackable zaino wax thats great for cars, but its 8hour dry time wasnt ideal for experimenting last night :p. figured what worked with turtle wax would just work better with zaino for a finished product.
I’m not a car modeler but it sounds like your laying it on too thick all at once. Mist coat first, then several very light coats. The thinner the coats the better. It took me 3 coats to get my gloss correct for navy midnight blue airplanes. Maybe more thinner too.
to smooth it ll out, I just rub printer paper in a polishing manner
I think your pressure may b a bit high as well.
so lower the pressure, and add some thinner maybe.
I do very thin coats; takes about 3 coats before you dont see the primer anymore, and I do 6 or more depending on the color total. I wait about 5-10min between coats or 24 hours if I cant get back to it in 5-10min. read that was the right timing somewhere. correct me if thats wrong.
Try this on some scrap before something important, but I’d recommend somewhat heavier coats. Watch the spray as it hits the surface and watch for a slight shine. Not heavy and wet, but shiny right where it hits. You’ll know what I mean when you see it. Also lower you pressure to around 15 psi and get in about 3-4" from the surface.
whats a good material to use as scrap? I assume cardboard wont react the same bieng absorbant. I dont really have scrap plastic laying around.
Paper or cardboard act differently from plastic. Try plastic soft drink bottles. The big 2 and 3 liter bottles work pretty well for practice. Most hobby stores will have sheet styrene that is pretty cheap. I have a couple of sheet that have lots of layers of paint on them from practice and testing.
I’ve used this method, after your last coat and you happy with the depth of color, mix more thinner into the paint. Get that mixed, spray on a scrap piece until the thinned mixture comes out. Then mist the your paint work. keep it light! Too much and it’ll run your paint. As explained to me, this method smooths out the highs and lows in the paint. But expariment first., you will need to find the right mixture and pressure to do this. I work at nearly 50/50 or higher thinner. and 30lb psi. Good luck. By the way it has worked for aircraft and cars.
A good way to get a mirror like gloss coat is to first mist on the colour a couple of times, then applie a heavier coat.
Once this is dry aplly about light 2 coats of clear gloss or future,once dry very lighlty sand it witha 4000 grit sand paper working up to 6000 grit , this should help get rid of any orange peel, then apply another 2 light coats and repeat the above process .
Then aplly a final light coat of gloss, you should now have no traces of orange peel, over this you apply your wax coats working evenly over the whole body.
Using this technique should give a smooth glass finish with a nice deep glossy look.
PS you should make sure oyu don’t miss a step as it is all neccesary in order to create the nice finish!!!
I tried more thinner; mixed a full jar of tamiya paint with half its weight in thinner; came out to like 24grams of paint from a jar and 12grams of thinner. I used a scale to check it.
but it seemed to go on REALLY wet. hard to say but I think I may have even gotten some drips which I never got with an airbrush before. and at the same time; the paint dried almost hazy despite looking good when wet.
when the psi was at 15 the droplets looked a little large; you could see them hitting the painted surface and kinda making craters that would then even out. Im wondering if the needle is bent; it is slightly hooked I think, not visible but if I run my cotton glove up 1 side it will catch; other side doesnt. could something that small cause the paint to not spray right?
yes!. fix one, buy a new needle, two. try to roll it out on a flat heavy smooth metel surface or a double pane glass surface This last one is go for a temp. fix. But it will work.
Good luck