Tape, acrylic, and re-doing a model!

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Painting and airbrushing
1

It seems no matter what I do, I am unsuccessful with taping acrylics. Am I doing something wrong?

I use Model Master and Tamiya acrylics and I wait sometimes a week before taping them to paint. I’ll run the tape over my arm to take some of the “stick” off too. When I pull the tape off it invariably peels the paint right to the bare plastic. I do not typically use a primer. I tried shooting Future over the acrylic before taping and that didn’t work either. When I use enamel it never is a problem. I’m to the point where I will only shoot acrylic over enamel or when it is a single color with no taping needed. I don’t want to use wet newspaper as that is a pain. What am I doing wrong?

Now, I have a model that is a mess. What is the best method to strip any remaining acrylic so I can redo the model?

Thanks for any help,

#frustrated

2

Do you wash your model sprues prior to beginning assembly? I’ve found that when I don’t wash the pieces in warm soapy water, I have the same issue. Something about mold release agent or some such thing. Also, I always prime my models prior to painting.

With regards to stripping the paint, using Vallejo, I typically use isopropyl alcohol and strip it that way, being careful not to let the alcohol get in places I don’t want it to go.

3

Acrylic isn’t like enamals or laquers inasmuch as they don’t bite into the substrate (plastic) much, not enough to stand up to masking.

Most everybody uses primers. Future is not a primer.

My 2 cents is that you try a real primer like Tamiya, Mr Surfacer or Stynylrez (the latter if you’d prefer not to spray smelly stuff).

Also, I hate to say Model Master acrylic has a reputation of coming up with tape when the surface isn’t properly primed.

Regarding stripping, a Windex bath will work too.

4

Use enamel primer

5

In addition to washing the sprues prior, I’ll give them a light scuff with a gray scotchbrite pad, just to give my primer or paint something to grab onto. Then a light scuff with gray again prior to color coats. No problem with pulling MM or Tamiya acrylics, when going over MM laquer primer (2981 rattle can). The laquer bites into the plastic, and the light scuff before color give a little “tooth” for the color to bite into and hold.

Might also go over everything with a tack cloth just as you are ready to put down color, to get rid of any light dust/dirt that would affect adhesion.

6

Dittos for priming if using acrylics, and you may want to try washi tape, found in papercrafting departments. It has a low tack.

7

Primer.

8

yeah it matters not what you apply OVER the acrylic - it matters what comes ‘TWEEN the plastic and the layer of paint. I don’t care if you put 300 coats of Future on top of it and let it cure for the next 50 years - iffen there was nothing for that paint to get a bite into - it’s a coming up with the tape.

And that’s just the way it is.

9

Use primer.

10

I agree with using primer. However, you didn’t mention what kind of tape you’re using. Tamiya tape/ frog painter tape or regular household masking tape. If it’s regular household masking tape, don’t use it.