Tamiya Walker Bulldog 1/35 -First Build

kllp101 · May 17, 2011, 8:30am

This tank is my first build and I am new to modeling. [:)] Here’s some pics on my tank.

Wait, how do you post pictures?

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/:550:0]

Please post any comments and give me a head up of what I still have to work on.

SuppressionFire · May 17, 2011, 8:34am

Check out the archives or the Q & A section of the forums, this question has been answered in detail many times.

Welcome to the forums, looking forward to seeing your work!

Jason

kllp101 · May 17, 2011, 9:07am

Thanks, I got it to work.

SuppressionFire · May 17, 2011, 9:50am

Nice clean build kllp101

Many (& Manny) wish their first builds turned out as well.

Noticed a sheen (Not Charlie) on the paint. A coat of Flat Clear spray will turn the finish flat & seal the decals in for weathering. (Dull coat)

Weathering pigments are basically a powder that will adhere to flat paint when brushed on. Try not to handle the model at this stage as it will mar the pigments & leave unsightly finger prints.

Who am I to say? Possibly the tank is cleaned up for service around a base State side?

I do believe the Bulldog seen action in Korea. If so get reference photographs from that conflict (preferably color) and buy a pigment suitable to the landscape, that is match the color of pigment to the soil found there.

kllp101 · May 17, 2011, 10:05am

Thanks. I wanted to put on a clear coat but I thought the model would be too shiny. What kind of coat do you recommend? Flat clear or clear? Also, I used tamiya “pigments” weathering set for the weathering and primary used mud and sand color. Also have some questions. I wanted to start doing washes on probably my next build and wanted to know if I needed a clear and then wash or can I wash on bare paint surface? Also, do I need to clear over the decals or before i use the decals? What clear do you recommend? Thanks.

The_Navigator · May 17, 2011, 10:10am

Congrats for your 1st build. It looks good, the only thing I would point out is the decal silvering. Make sure the surface is nice and shiny before you put the decals on. I like to use another gloss coat after that and then the flat finish. Is that the motorized version?

Keep up the good work

Mike

{{EDIT}}- just saw your last post, check out the tips and techniques section for ideas and then start experimenting. Everyone has their own way of doing it , just make sure your wash isn’t the same kind of paint(enamel, acrylic) as what you are covering.

SuppressionFire · May 17, 2011, 12:16pm

A product to help with the decals is Micro-scale decal solvents. One is a pre-decal liquid that chases air away from the surface. (air pockets is the ‘silvering’ effect) The other is a decal solvent that softens the decal to snug down better also helping eliminate ‘silvering’. Read the instructions and as always best to practice with extra decals first.

Another tip is to trim the carrier film close to the decal as possible. This is the clear area that extends past the color part of the decal. Leave a ‘tab’ to handle the decal with tweezers, otherwise it will be impossible to apply.

kllp101 · May 17, 2011, 12:27pm

Thanks. I think I will buy that. Do you apply the solvent on the tank or do you just submerge the decal in the solvent? Also, does clear coats cause a shiny gloss or looks the same without coat? I am currently working on another beginner model, the tamiya panzer kampfwagen ii aus f/g in 1/35 scale. I will use your techniques on this model, but I don’t think i can help the silivering on the walkerbulldog. Should I use the clear coat on the walker bulldog? Thanks

The_Navigator · May 17, 2011, 1:02pm

First- Brush the solvent on the kit where the decal will go. Then put some on the decal once it is in place. You will see wrinkles-DON’T WORRY- the wrinkles are supposed to be there. Next, step away from the kit for a few hours to let everything dry.

Second- You need to use a clear gloss under the decal. Anything else underneath will create air pockets which lead to the silvering.

Third- I would leave the Bulldog alone. It looks great.I only noticed the decals because I looked for them. The Panzer II is a fun little kit, good luck with it. Now go to the tip section and start studying.[:D]

Mike

spadx111 · May 17, 2011, 1:13pm

[Y] nice start .

Ron

wbill76 · May 17, 2011, 1:13pm

Congrats on completing your first armor build and [snWcm] to the forums! Lots of friendly folks here and great advice/tips available even though it is called the “dark side” of model building. [B]

kllp101 · May 17, 2011, 1:53pm

Thanks for the tips, Mike. I guess I have a lot to learn from serious and professional modelers like you. I think i’m also going to buy some MIG pigments and washes.

The_Navigator · May 17, 2011, 2:27pm

Sorry thats the other Mike, I’m neither serious or professional [proplr].

disastermaster · May 17, 2011, 4:09pm

Great start.

!http://th1132.photobucket.com/albums/m575/maxmoo/Funny%20Pics/Decor%20Smileys/th_babysmiley3.gifWe all have to start somewhere.

Welcome to the beginning of a long and endless

learning curve.

Stay close to this forum and read !http://th717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/prestonjjrtr/Smileys/th_1lg154library.gif

everything you can.

There are a LOT of kind, talented and generous people here that can show you how to accomplish many things.

!http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b232/gluetank/Animated/th_1-Animated-Disastermaster.gif?t=1296616998

SuppressionFire · May 17, 2011, 7:50pm

If there is no clear coat over the Bulldog decals then try Micro Decal solvent. It will soften the decals and may snug them down, removing the slight silvering for you. If it has been over coated then move on to the next project.

Decals work best over gloss finished. Flat finishes have a rough texture that traps the tiny air pockets under the decal.

I just brush Future Acrylic floor polish on the area the decal is to be placed. Allow it to dry 24 hours before the decals. After satisfied with the decal then over coat with a Clear flat like dull coat.

Some spray the entire model with Future to prep the model for intense weathering. Save the advanced techniques for after you have a few models completed.

The MIG pigments produce excellent results. Your Panzer will accelerate your skills, just keep it fun! Long as you are happy with your progression then each will evolve into a better representation of a scale miniature.

DO try a new technique or two each build. DO push your skills each one as well. DO NOT try for show stopping perfection, if you are satisfied then it was a good build.

Good luck & post pictures of the Panzer IV!

Jason

MAJ_Mike · May 17, 2011, 8:10pm

Very clean and crisp build. Nicely done.

[snWcm] Welcome to the asylum!!

disastermaster · May 17, 2011, 8:16pm

See what I mean…!http://th717.photobucket.com/albums/ww173/prestonjjrtr/Smileys/th_up_2.gif

Hercmech · May 17, 2011, 8:30pm

It came out great for a first build or any build for that matter. You really did a good job on the wheels and bogeys, they can really be a pain but you did a good job on them. Like has been mentioned before squirt some dull coat on it and you will get a much better result. Again good work![Y]

Brownsfan · May 17, 2011, 8:55pm

I would never have guessed from the pictures that this is your first model. Nice job! My Dad was a tanker in Korea in the early 60’s and drove an M-41, so the person that said these say service in Korea was correct.

kllp101 · May 17, 2011, 9:27pm

Thanks for the tips jason. And I also thank everyone for their kind words. I might actually use the Micro Decal solvent once I get my hands on one since I didn’t gloss at all. I didn’t even know clear coating existed when I was building the model. I have actually done some intense weathering on a pre-built 1/24 rc tank from another company. It came pre-painted so all I did was weather it. Here’s a pic of my version of a Snow Sherman.

[View:/themes/fsm/utility/:550:0]

To tel you the truth, all of this weathering is pure experimentation. I already had another 1/24 rc sherman of the same company and color so I decided to make a snow sherman just for fun. All I did was got my tamiya class C or B weathering sets and dry brushed the pigments.powder all over the sherman and made rusty rain marks using… acyrillic thiner! I actually used tamiya earth brown thinner or gel, (what do you call that clear stuff on the suface of acryllic paint) and the white pigments actually clinged onto the clear acryllic thinner and made the rain marks. Quite an unusual weathering system. I may have totally srewed up, but I had a blast weathering.

Question for you guys: Does this snow sherman scheme really exist? Because I really doubt that there were even snow sherman…