Okay, Somebody please tell why some Tamiya tracks hold paint & some don’t!!![banghead] It’s like every other Tamiya armor kit I do, the freaking paint starts flaking off the [censored] tracks. The tracks in question have been washed, warm soapy water, dried, & primed. I’ve tried the “metal” tracks, ain’t got the patience for it. Any hints, allegations, or things left unsaid??? [censored]
When I paint “rubber band” tracks, I use Model Master Metalizer (burnt iron) as a base. The laquer is hotter and tends to bite into the tracks better.
Newer kits have tracks that are gluable and made of a diffent material than the old kits were…
But yeah, use laquer…
Whenever I painted rubber tracks I would first give them a coat of Testors dull coat lacquer. Never had a problem with paint staying on after.
I try to stay away from rubber tracks now days. Much prefer the link & length (I’m a glutton for punishment) or Model Kasten.
I’m workin’ a Luchs with indy links right now… I absolutely, positively, HATE those kind of kits and it’s becoming the rule, rather than the exception nowadays… Pins and thread ain’t easy enough to get track-sag? What member of MENSA came up with THAT marketing idea. I think the manufacturers could throw a freaking bone to us and give us a choice of tracks…
I looked at some Model Kasten tracks yesterday and was shocked at the price. No way, no how, lol…
I always prime rubber band tracks with black or dark brown Humbrol enamel:
Nary a problem. Mind you, I do always paint them on-vehicle.
Cheers,
Chris.
Okay now that’s someplace I won’t go. Hats off to you guys that can.
It’s easier than people think. Just use dilute acrylics, and have a damp q-tip or three on hand to wipe off any mistakes you make. Just takes practice.
Cheers,
Chris.
If your dealing with old Tamiya stuff from the the '70’s and early '80’s, you can also use acrylics which ironically seem to stick better than enamels.
Not to sound harsh HvH but someone of your known frugality when it comes to kit prices wouldn’t be willing to pay the kit prices that would result from the added cost of kits coming with “either/or” options in regards to tracks. [;)]
For German and Russian vehicles, there’s no substitute IMHO for the use of indy links (whether or static or workable) to get the correct amount of sag for different build scenarios and vehicle types. For Allied vehicles indy-links are are a complete waste of time for the most part though.
With all the PE and metal barrels that they add to jack up the price, I doubt a set of vinyl tracks would be much of price increase when they’re already priced beyond my normal means…[;)]
I probably would break down and buy vinyl tracks if they’re cheap enough… Thought I ran across a site for them once upon a time…
'm REALLY hoping that the Tamiya M-113 tracks I have from a wreck will fit my AFV Club M-548… That’s another indy link kit…
I’m trying this way right now. Seeing that I had already primed & painted. I’ll go over them again. It’s funny the paint is only flaking off the inside. I like the Tamiya metallic gray, then I weather them up, with a black oil wash & red/brown oil wash. Almost finished with the Tamiya sdkfz 251/1 Hanomag!!![#toast]
If they don’t fit, look for AFV CLub’s T130E1 Track for M730/M548 (#35065) They’re “one piece” tracks and should come in under $8.00.
Regarding the Tamiya tracks overall, though the newer “glueable” tracks take paint better, I’ve seen comments about them disintegrating when painted with enamels/lacquers or when washed using enamels with a high thinner content. These seem better painted with straight acrylics.
The different formulation also seems somewhat stiffer than the old vinyl type (which was designed to be very flexible to work with their motorised kits). and is reportedly more prone to breakage from flexing.