I thinned it with 91% IPA . All I got was a lumping mess. Next I tried acetone and I got some better results than the IPA. It thinned but after few seconds it hardened. It seems as though it did not want to mix after 10 sec or so. The acetone separated from the putty.
I dont use Tamiya but my squadron green putty does the same thing at first when thinning with alcohol… it gets a bit lumpy… but if you keep working it in it becomes almost like mud… thats when I stick it on the model… at that point you only have about a minute or so to put it on but it works!
I thin Tamiya putty with straight acetone. For small jobs, I use an old paint brush and paint a thin coat to the spot i need to fix. Since the acetone evaporates so fast, within about 30 seconds I paint another thin layer to the spot. i do this until i have filled in the problem spot. When dry, sand as usual. I find that Tamiya thinned with acetone is extremely easy to work with. If you overthin it, wait a few minutes to let some of the acetone evap. and away you go. for bigger gaps, i simply thin less or not at all. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the suggestions. Whether I use acetone or alcohol it is going to take some practice. I read in the forum where some have used denature alcohol with the squadron green putty (SGP). I have a tube of SGP but the vapors are a bit strong and gives me a headache. So I went with the tamiya putty which seems to be not as thick and vapors not as strong.
Thanks for the suggestion John. I will be heading for Walmart to picks some up. Currently I am building a Ju 88C-6 from Revell. From what I understand they got the molds from Dragon and from what I read Dragon kits are notorious for poor fits. I am finding this out with this particular kit . [banghead]