Erm, both links of Friuls are complete. I’d have a lot more done but an unplanned day out yesterday and having to work today as someone phoned in sick left me enough time to assemble the entire second run from scratch.
These were the fiddliest Friuls I’ve worked with so far-even worse than the Pz I’s!
At least I can get really stuck in now! I have the blemishing fluid so the tracks are good to go.
For those thinking of building this kit with Friuls I used 103 links on one side and 102 on the other. I’d have liked a saggy look but it looked odd and they wouldn’t sit right. Add one extra link and it really messes things up on both sides!
Now, lets see where some light weathering takes this thing!
First off - how do I know what Ausf Pz II this is?
I really need to get this build wrapped up asap as I have a spanking new Dragon Ausf E with Zim ready to go for Tigerman’s ‘Steel Cats’ GB.
Last week the Friuls were completed (still to be treated which I’ll do tomorrow). I do think they looked a bit tight so I’m going to add another link to each side tomorrow then I’ll put a dab of CA Gel onto the to front and rear return rollers to make sure they hold the tracks properly allowing me to add some sag between the rollers.
Today I painted and fitted the tools (apart from the Jack which I lost if you recall and the replacement needs assembling again), applied a Raw Umber wash made by my fair hand from W&N oil paint. I then carried out general tidy-up work and painted some Vallejo Dark Rubber onto the road wheels.
The work done this afternoon looks good and I’m very pleased. You’ll notice that I’ve done some heavy bare metal sponge chipping which will look out-of-place on this early WWII Pz II at the minute but please, bare with me and don’t give it too much thought at present because I’m going to show the build as being very dusty which covers up the chips so it works in reverse and they show through only slightly with great results. I’m going to use some Panzer Fading Grey Mig Pigment on the build to provide some variation in the grey tones. I’ve used this method before where the pigments have covered up the chips and the results were impressive, to say the least!
Next week I have Friday and the following Monday off (i.e. a 4 day weekend) so I’ll be completing this on the Friday and starting my Tiger I on Saturday [H]
Photos showing today’s work:
Below: The build, the chipping sponge set-up and the roadwheels:
More tomorrow mainly pigments and airbrushed buff and water (8 parts water to 2 parts Buff) which dries to leave a great dusty effect. Also Friuls will be fitted and lower hull weathing will start.
Remember there’s going to a lot of dust on this thing so try and ignore the chips at present - it will work out fine!
It’s looking really good right now can’t wait to see it after weathering… Have you thought about adding some primer chips too to very the color a bit? I’m guessing that you have something amazing planed to do with her to bring it all together so I’ll keep watching
From the start I’d always been planning a dusty look for this tank. I tried using a tiny piece of sponge for the chipping (a rough piece of sponge use for skin scrubbing so it’s very loose, not tightly ‘packed together’ like a normal sponge.
I’m going to get the rest of the kit on board, add some further streaking effects and then start adding pigments - dry brushed into crevices, wet slop on the wheels to be later scrubbed off and the usual muffler weathering. This will tone it all down and I’ll just keep playing around with it until I’m happy. As I previously mentioned airbrushed water and buff mix will be gently bown up against the corners as it dries to great effect.
As a suggestion only, you might consider going back over the bare metal chipping effect with some darker color like Burnt Umber or Raw Umber to deepen/vary the effect a bit and not rely solely on the dust effects to come to tone it down. That way it won’t look like it’s chipped aluminum underneath the dust but actually primered steel peeking through or similar. Just a thought in terms of adding some layering/effect to the finish.
As for your question as to which Ausf this really is…it is in truth a C but that’s down to the choices Tamiya made in the style of the visor ports for the hull and turret. Otherwise the c/A/B/C variants are virtually indistinguishable from each other from the exterior. HTH!
Well, apart from taking a file to the Friuls and showing some bare metal on the horns and adding some stowage later on, she is complete - and dammit! This is my best model yet - I’m so pleased with how this has come out! The weathering looks perfect and after adding a link to each Friul run - it’s turned out so well! This will look great sat between my Pz IA and Pz III N!
I followed Bills advice re the chipping which helped a lot and hit her with a very watery buff (9 parts water to 1 part buff) which dries to leave a great dusty finish. I got October’s FSM with Bill’s Wespe on the front and copied (ahem) his recommendation to use 4 particular types of pigment that I have and apply onto the wheels and running gear, allow to dry and then scrub off with a stiff brush - I used an old toothbrush.
After that some more streaking, mig engine fluid effects around the filler cap and engine/gearbox housing hatches, more pigments and to finish her off I added some small chain onto the towing hook. The Friuls were treated with AK’s Blemishing fluid but they didn’t look too good so I added some Russian Earth Pigment to some AK Odourless Thinner and allowed it to soak around the links which blackened them perfectly. Some Dry Mud pigment was then brushed on. A Graphite stick was used on wheel rims and exposed edges after weathering to show fresh wear.
I’m planning to go back to this to add a little bit of stowage and spare track but I’m keen to get going on my Tiger I for the Steel Cats GB!
Btw - the barrels and the antennae are from RB Models.
I also need to sort out some smake candle pulls but have nothing suitably small enough to use! Suggestions.
Well, I hope you like her guys - I know I do a lot. Thanks for all your advice along the way lads!
I hope you like chaps - I’d love to read any comments.
Next up - Dragon Late Tiger I Ausf E for Tigerman’s ‘Steel Cat’s’ GB!
looks amazing that water and buff mixes does leave a nice dusty effect might have to try it out on one of my old kits to see how it looks… I loved watching this can’t wait to see your next one
Hey Ben your finish looks great! I think just enough chipping to give the effect without over doing and the light dust coat has been applied nicely [Y] I really like how this one came out, NICE job [H]
I’ll be starting work on the Tiger I for ‘Steel Cats’ now Tigerman. I’ll be going the other way with that one and will be keeping weathering light. I’ll be concentrating on a serious quality build with that kit and plan to try some new methods along the way too.
Now I’ve got this Tiger to start on - I’m thinking of which way I can take that in terms of ‘looks’? So, it’s Normandy and it’s '44. I’m assuming my Tiger is not exactly going to be production line clean and more than a little battle damaged?
Any ideas for a good looking Normandy Tiger I lads?
Thanks again for the great feedback everyone - it’s made my day seeing Steve’s post! LOL!
