I began using Tamiya acrylic paint about two years ago after using Testors acrylic for years and I have found a small problem I was wondering if any of you knew how to correct. For airbrushing nothing beats the Tamiya acrylics but I have a problem with brushing it on. The first coat is always a bit thin and usually needs a second coat. This isn’t the problem though. My problem comes when I apply the second coat with my brush. The second coat removes the first coat I applied. I have tried thinning my paints with different thinners i.e. alchahol, Tamiya thinner, H2O. I have tried them not thinned at all. I have even tried letting the first coat dry for a day or two before applying the second coat but always the same problem arrises. The second application removes the base coat. Does anyone else have this problem, and does anyone have a solution?
Wow!! I’ve been using Tamiya acrylics for over a decade and I must admit I’ve never come across this problem. It’s a real worry!!
I guess it’s back to basics - clean the model thoroughly, use a good quality undercoat (flat white is often a good option, as it can warm up many colors like reds and yellows and requires less topcoat to cover), paint several very light coats before the first is completely dry, so the whole thickness of paint can dry as a single coat (if you understand my meaning). Or, let each dust coat dry completely for a couple of days. Try to make sure you don’t use TOO much thinner for the paint - I use isopropyl alcohol for Tamiya - after all, you need the paint to flow through the airbrush but still need it to stick to the model, and don’t use excessive pressure in the gun. I’ve had excellent results using Tamiya acrylics, “hot” acetone based automotive acrylics, as well as enamels. they all require slightly different techniques, but the general gist is the same - don’t put on TOO much paint at once, and don’t use TOO much thinner in the paint.
Lee,
You are talking about airbrushing, correct? If you are, I have no problem airbrushing with Tamiya paint. In fact they are my paints of choice for my airbrush. My problem comes with a regular brush. The second coat removes the first and I find it very difficult to get good coverage.
I never have this problem with Testors Acrylics. I would just prefer to have Tamiya paint only, bigger bottles and all. I just can’t solve this problem so I have to keep Testors acrylics on hand for all the paint brushing I do.
I use Tamiya as well the only time I had problems was when I use a model from Airfix. The paint rubbed off quite easily. However used on a Heller or Revell Kit no problems On the Heller kit it is very hard indeed. Revell is a bit more tricky. But after finishing the model I give it a coat of clear floor paint, also acrylics and that works fine.
This is odd, I have no trouble brushing Tamiya acylic, but find it needs about nine coats to achieve coverage when sprayed! I use poly scale and find it sprays or brushes perfectly pretty well straight from the bottle.
N,
I can’t really say that I’ve had this problem hand brushing Tamiya acrylics - I usually find that one coat is all that’s needed for small stuff and detail painting. Anything larger I hit with the airbrush - usually two coats gives a really nice cover for matts and semi-gloss. The gloss paint takes however many coats it takes until it looks good - usually two or three.
I guess the moral of the story here is - don’t put a second brush coat over your Taymia paint. Don’t think this is a condemnation of Tamiya acrylics…I have about 30 pots of their paint - I wouldn’t buy it if it didn’t work for me…
The only problem I’ve ever really had with Tamiya is painting a gloss color, decalling, then overcoating with Tamiya clear. I’d not let the paint dry completely (could be several weeks) and the paint AND the clearcoat all shrank at different speeds, cracking the decals and the clearcoat. Bummer.
good luck
Lee
do think if one were to paint with tamiya matte colors, then overcoat with tamiya clear that you might be able to get the cracked overly painted look like on just about every armour vehicle? Of course you’d have to give it a touch of somekinda matte touchup after the clearcoat stuff dried so long as it would crack up the paint and clearcoat?
I’ve run into a similar problem. My problem has the same result but comes from a different situation. It happens on certain models when I brush using the back and forth method. I believe this happens from paint drying partially on one side of the brush and sticking itself to the other paint. The only time this happens is when Im brush painting my 1/72 armor from hasegawa. I dont have this problem with any kit from any other manufacturer. hope this helps
I have the same problem with acrylic paints. I didn’t try real hard to solve it though. My solution was to either use humbrol enamels, or airbrush the stuff.
I have had the same problem. I find it happens when I linger or take an exsesive amount of time to put the next coat on. So I just do it quicker and if anything put a thin third coat on.
I’ve had that problem, too, and it seemed to come from either waiting too long or not long enough between coats. If the paint is still fresh and hasn’t yet set, the second coat will apply ok. Likewise, if the first coat has set overnight and cured, the second coat will be ok. It seems to be that in-between time that causes the problem.