how do you use tamiya clear on a model?ive purchased one recently and just wanna check wiht you guys before applying them.is this also the same as future?theres no one selling future here so i opted to try tamiya clear.and also do i have to thin it?after the decals were placed on the model what else do i have to apply over it?lastly i have seen a tamiya base paint but dont know what its for.thanks guys.
It’s not the same stuff as future.
I’ve had Tamiya clear react badly with Tamiya gloss paints - the result was that the clear coat softened the gloss coat and then the whole lot shrank, putting about a thousand cracks through the paint and the decals.
Use Future instead. Works much better.
Cheers
LeeTree
oops - sorry - didn’t answer your questions…
Tamiya clear will have to be thinned - I use isopropyl alcohol.
The Tamiya Flat Base (I assume that’s what you’re talking about) is actually a flat base to add to gloss paints to make them semi gloss or flat, depending on how much you add. Whatever you do, DO NOT thin the flay base by itself and apply to your model - your model will go completely flat and completely white - there’s the voice of experience talkin here.
Like I said, I’d just forget about other clearcoats and just use Future. It’s cheap, does a fantastic job, and there are absolutely no bad things you can say about Future. Dip your canopies in it, paint it over decals, add a little black or brown to thinned Future for washes…it’s great stuff.
LeeTree
Jengjeng77
Tamiya’s clear is a transparent coat with a gloss finish. You can add ‘Flat Base’ (not too much) to it or other gloss paints to get a flatter finish. Test first when you do use the flat base, since an excess will cause the clear to become cloudy (dries cloudy too). Clear coats (especially flats) are best sprayed on with an airbrush. If you’re airbrushing, you’d probably have to thin it to get it flowing nicely(I find Tamiya acrylics spray best from my airbrush when thinned about 20-30%). If brushing, you probably don’t have to thin it unless the consistency is a little too thick. After decaling, apply another layer of clear to seal in the decals. Apply appropriately: flat, semi-gloss or gloss according to the final finish you desire.
I’ve applied Tamiya clear over Tamiya gloss paints without the problem cited by LeeTree. Perhaps his base coats weren’t completely cured yet?
Happy clear-coating!
Futrue is basically used to seal, protect from weathering, or give the model some shine.
I use Tamiya Clear when modelling Afrika Corp models mostly. I add about 20% Tamiya Clear to my paint mix for the base coat. I never use Tamiya Clear to seal my model.
I can’t answer your ?? about the Tamiya product but can tell you that what some people refer to as ‘Future’ is not always marketed under that name. I don’t know where you are but in the UK the same product is called Johnsons Klear - and can be bought in any large supermarket. Hope this helps a littlle.
Where R U? - for Future read Klear or for Klear read Future!! The future is clear.
Eddel might possibly be right - my gloss paint coat might not have been completely dry when I applied the decals, then clearcoated it with Tamiya Clear. Then the whole lot dried, shrank and cracked.
Again, I’ve never had this problem with Future. It’s a helluva lot cheaper than the Tamiya clear. What can I say?
LeeTree
THANKS AGAIN FOR THOSE WHO REPLIED TO MY QUESTIONS.NOW I KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH MY MODEL.TILL AGAIN MY NEXT QUESTIONS GUYS.[:D]
I had trouble finding ‘Future’, however a little search through the supermarket shelf may reveal an equivalent. Sometimes it is sold under a different name, for example I found a Johnsons product called Pledge which seems to do all that Johnsons Future and Kleer does.
Happy shopping!