Superglue - applying tiny amounts

Superglue. What a mixed bag of pros and cons. I hate it. I love it. Unfortunately, after having tried just about every putty and Mr. Mrs. and Ms. surfacer products out there, I have come to the reluctant conclusion that you just can’t beat superglue for most filling applications. The tricks are to be able to apply it in a small enough amount, and to sand before it hardens. I have the sanding timing pretty much down (but ya can’t wait long). My biggest problem was applying tiny amounts. I tried needles, pins, toothpicks, etc. without much success. I tried microbrushes from Micromark, and they worked great for many things, but even the finest ones weren’t fine enough to make teeny tiny fills-------UNTIL, I got the bright idea to whittle the fine microbruch down with my hobby knife until there were only 3 or 4 hairs left on one side of it. Wow, what a difference! I’m finally able to fill with superglue without having to sand away all the detail around the fill spot. Now, if my sinuses could learn to stand the stuff…

TomB

Good idea…I have to give it a try. Thank you.

Well, I have good luck with toothpicks, but if the odor bothers you that bad, you might consider the odorless, its expensive, but if your having problems breathing because of it, it might be worth it!

I’ve always just used round wooden toothpicks, but then my standards aren’t very high.[;)]

I actually use old microbrushed for that, I pull off the hardend hairs (from old paint, glue, etc…) with one quick pull. The plastic is a bit soft and it actually pulls the plastic out to a fine point. The great thing is that as dried CA glue builds it, another quick pull will clear the point again.

Micro mark offers the “Touch and Flow” applicator, go to thier web site and check it out. It is really designed for Tenax or Pro Weld. I use these plastic welders, they get you away from CA and can close small gaps by softening up the plastic. Of course, the CA gels don’t get along with any micro applicator. When I need a drop of gel, I use a dress maker pin taped to an old paintbrush handle…works great, and dip the pin in some acetone to keep it free of buildup.

I also use syriges, but I get them easily because I’m diabetic. I use them only once for my insulin shot, but then they work great for applying CA and accelerator in tiny droplets. It’s important to flush them with acetone after the CA use, or they seize up. The Touch and Flow is a glass tube, but you still have to clean it often to keep it from seizing. Acetone works great here as well. I just throw the syringes away after I use them a few times, since I have an endless supply…if you can get them, I’d go with the touch and flow or syringes…

Steve

Steve,

I also use liquid cement for most of my assembly work, and I use the touch and flow for applying most of it (I use Tamiya Extra Thin). Liquid cement gives you time to adjust a fit if its off on first contact, and if you can get a clean fit you can end up with just a tiny bead of plastic to scrape off with no filling required at all. But when I have to fill, I’ve found that with all the putties and (especially) the surfacers I have to fill and sand repeated times because of shrinkage during drying. And then there’s the pits! I have that problem too. Anyway, I’ve just found that CA works better (and more immediately), so my problem has been finding the best way to apply it. I think toothpicks, pins and needles don’t work for me because I use relatively thin CA for filling small defects. A few hairs of the microbrush will catch the thin cement, and in tiny droplets. Besides placement, however, the key is to file or sand at just the right moment before the CA hardens. You can’t wait until after, because then the CA is harder than the surrounding plastic and you can’t sand it down without causing collateral damage. Consequently, I never use accelerator when using CA for filling (contrary to some instructions I’ve read). Using the smallest sanding tool possible helps too. So far it’s the best way I’ve found, but I keep experimenting…

It certainly is a continual learning process, this hobby of ours. When I think of how far along I could have been, and how many cool models I could have built if I hadn’t given up the hobby for 35 years, it makes me want to cry!

TomB

TRY FINE BIRD FEATHERS

being hollow as well you get enough glue in them like a syringe

Try sewing needles, not the pointy end the eye end. I bought an assormentment pack maybe 10years ago, ground off half the eye with the dremel drum bit. Stick the point in an exacto handle. Now I have fine CA applicators all the way down to “super ultra mirco” applicators. I keep them clean in acetone.

Another method I’ve used is taking my broken micro drill bits, the #60 tru #80 ones. I chuck them in an exacto handle. These applicators hold more CA glue. They(the drilling end) work on the touch and flow, by capillary action. Again keeping them clean in acetone.