As much as I enjoy using lacquers they will sometimes make seams and bodywork that you thought were perfect reappear. With Tamiya flats I prefer using denatured alcohol. With gloss and semigloss Tamiya I use either X20 or Iso alcohol. Tamiya lacquer thinner or Gunze Mr Color thinner are pretty mild and work well with Tamiya acrylics but it’s still lacquer thinner. You can thin as much with denatured alcohol as you can with lacquer thinner. I don’t use retarder or flow aid with Tamiya acrylics anymore. Try polishing the airbrush needle from just behind the needle seal or bearing forward and that, along with very thin paint, will greatly reduce or eliminate tip dry. If you have polishing cloths then use them down to the finest grit and then use a little metal polish on a clean cloth. If you don’t have polishing cloths then 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper will work. Just wet it with a drop of oil or a little water, fold them over, place the needle in the fold and gently squeeze the paper or cloth against it with thumb and forefinger and turn the needle with your other hand. Finish with some metal polish and then clean off the residue. Doesn’t take that long. And when painting, occasionally go off target and pull the trigger wide open for a couple seconds. Thin paints, low air pressure and a polished needle will work wonders.
Tony