While I’m waiting for the paint to dry on the Avenger, and the paint to arrive for the Swordfish, I decided to start the Accurate Miniatures single-seat Il-2. I’m also using the Eduard PE set with this kit. These pics will give a better idea of what’s in the Eduard set, before any painting has begun.
The seat/bulkhead, control column, and console are not glued in place tet. After I paint, wash, & drybrush, I’ll assemble it. There is also a PE instrument panel, with acetate backing, which I’ll glue to a piece of sheet styrene for strength. The first piece of PE I went to add got lost [banghead][censored] I had to scratch the left rudder pedal.
The gouges in the right fuselage half won’t be visible once the bulkhead & fuel tank are added.
These are the tops of the gear bays & the gear struts. The kit is packaged with skis, and all the parts are there for the wheeled version. As there is some nice PE for the gear, including doors & retraction mechanisms, I’ll build this one with wheels.
There are also PE parts for the gear bay sidewalls. Two nicely done screens are provided for the radiator between the gear. I’ll have to take a pic of these after they’re painted & glued in place, as Its nearly impossible to light & photograph them without gluing them in first.
So far, its taken me about ten hours to remove detail, and fold & attach the PE pieces. I’ll be painting the interior, gear, & bays tomorrow (Sunday). I’ll post more pics of this bird after the wash & drybrush are done.
Hope you like it so far, and thanks for letting me share yet ANOTHER build with you !
Looking good so far pix. Is the bulkhead behind the seat supposed to stay clear? If not why is it moulded in clear plastic? What kind of camera do you use to get such nice clear pictures? Looking forward to seeing more pics.
pingtang - there are two small, triangular windows (which are masked on both sides with Scotch “Frosty” tape) at the top of the bulkhead. This way, the window portions can be molded thinner, and there aren’t any seams to clean. I use a Canon Power Shot G2 camera, with 4 megapix resolution (2272 x 1704 pixels). All camera settings are done manually, as I REALLY dislike auto settings on cameras. It was expensive ($900 retail), but it blew away every lower-priced camera I tried, and cameras costing twice as much were only marginally better. I’m sure it will serve me well for many years to come.
Yes, the gear can be tricky. This is my third Stormovik, so most of the kit’s “quirks” have been encountered. I’ve learned what NOT to do. [(-D] (always the most important part of building a kit for me)
you are truly a model building machine pix!! i’m amazed at how you can crank these babies out so fast and they look so professionally done too!![:O] i’d love to pay a visit to your home and just gawk at all the models you have on display. how many do you keep in your home? do you keep all your builds or do you give them to people to make more room? i’ve been in this hobby for nearly a year now and just now am about to finish my second successful model!! you crank out 3 a week atleast my friend!! since you are taking photography on the side, is there some good basic photography books out there that i can read to learn more about how to photograph my models? thanks pix, and look out buddy, i’m gonna catch you oneday!!![:D][:P][(-D]
Jeeves - I need SOMETHING to do while the paint is drying ! [(-D] I had to order paint for the Swordfish (Tamiya suggests using RLM 75!). The correct colors for the Bismarck raid are Extra Dark Sea Gray & Slate Gray over Sky.
saltydog - I only have room to display about 100 or so. I lost about 200 in my last move, and I have another 100 that I built when I re-entered the hobby about 10 years ago. I probably could crank out one a week, if I didn’t have to wait for paint & Future to cure. I think that the fastest I have ever built was: 1/48 Dragon FW 190A-8, 1/48 DML Ta 152H-1, 1/48 Trimaster Me 262A-1a, and 1/48 Hasegawa Ju 87G-2, all built & painted together, in about six weeks. The FW 190, Ta 152, & Ju 87 all had Eduard PE sets.
At another forum (Scale Hobby), I have a bit of info that you may find useful. “An Introduction” covers basic camera operations, and other topics include lenses & lighting. I never used books for photography. It was all hands-on in three semesters of photo at college. You can learn a LOT of technical info & techniques by checking out Ansel Adams. He is considered one of the fathers of Fine Art photography.
Pix, that looks like a great start, those rudder pedals looked like the crew left sunglasses on the floor to me at first, but I’m okay now. [:)] Keep putting pics up as you go, I love progress pics.
John, that is a great model, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a plane that beaten up! I love it.
Thanks, PaddyWagon(hey! I had that kit as a kid !), falcon, & Madda !
You’re welcome, saltydog.
maddafinga - I left the rudder pedal straps unbuckled so I can paint both sides (leather). I’ll also be “fattening up” the handle of the lever to the pilot’s right with white glue.
This one won’t be receiving a coat of winter white. I’m going to use a scheme of Russian Green, Brown, & Weathered Black over Underside Blue. I’ve already built one with skis & white camo.
