Snaps 1/16 Full frame JU87 G Stuka Build

Modeling Subjects Aircraft
1

Here we go with this build. This is only available in Germany, Austria and Italy. This means that as my knowledge of these languages is down to getting alcohol, food and an ambulance/Paramedic that Google Translate is my friend [^o)]

This is a weekly build and so far I have the first 8 weeks in my grubby paws. It is also quite expensive so I am NOT rushing the job.

The Majority of this build is in etched Brass and I think aluminium skin. It is possible to solder this together, but as that is not in my skill set I am using Cyroan-whatever - Superglue to me!

Here we go chaps.

Issue 1 - Hachettes Build A JU87 Stuka.

The Parts

The Build

Starting off With the cockpit area I put together the pilots seat rostrum. This will have to be painted RLM 66 and RLM 02. First of all the sides put on and my trusty square to make sure that it is at 90 degrees.

Both sides on. My square used to make both sit properly upright.

THe top part put on. THis is only dry fitted to make sure that it does fit correctly before the inside is painted RLM 02.

The first frame is a double one. Above you can see the inner parts of the frame bent to the right angle and curve and glued in place. I think that this is where one of the wing braces fits so I use my square again to make sure that the inner parts are at the corrsect square angle. The other part of the frame will be put on after the painting is done.

Interior base coat of RLM 02 applied. I will do another 2 thin coats to firm up the colour and to even out the paint. After that has dried I will assemble the parts together and then add the RLM 66 cockpit colour.

Done! all painted, assembled and fits just right. I have the instrument panel to do - but at the moment I will leave it while later. So issue 1 is complete apart from the instrument panel which will be done at a later time.

2

Here we go with Issue 2 of the Build.

The Parts

The Build

Continuing on from last week we add another double frame and some longitudal framing. Basically the first bit is the same as last weeks frame and I rechon that there is some wing support spars to fit in here.

Ready for painting the interior of this frame with RLM 02. Once dry add the part to finish it off and stich to the bit I finished last post!

Some frame supports (I think) are added

Next up we put on some longitudnal framing. Initial dry fit.

Glued in place.

Apart from some paint that’s issue 2 complete!

3

1:16th stuka? jesus mother mary of puss thats gonna be a big mother. I shall be watching with bated breath. Cant wait to see more.

4

I would be cool if you could put something in your photos to give us some sense of scale (like a coin or car keys, etc.). I never heard of these type of kits until your post last week and I really look forward to your build! Thanks.

5

Well, at a guess i would say thats about an 18mm blade on the dremmel. which is around 3/4 of an inch.

Long story short THAT’S A BIG MOTHER OF A KIT.

http://www.den-stuka-bauen.de/modell.htm Website of the kit.

Dims are

710mm long

930mm wingspan (nearly a meter)

240mm Tall.

Its a monster.

6

Snaps never build something in 1/144 scale ? oh my gold [:|]

Basically the build is near to real build… I see in tv spots about the 1/20 zero, but never really thinked to buy it ,not only for the enormous final price but is something too differents from normal kits… ( i presume the instruction language are not in italian [8-|] )

follow with great curiosity and intrest [Y][Y]

7

I actual fact bsyamato,

The Zero is available in italy. it is 1/16 scale it is mostly etched nickel I think plus metal skin AND the instructions are in italian.

Deagaustino Italy have said that I can purchase it and they will send me it to England - but it will cost an extra 25% postage.

THey are about week 20 at the moment. so it will cost me around 54 Euro for 4 issues plus bank charges.

The price is 10.99 a week. These are stunning builds if you take your time. My advice is to go for it!

I am certainly thinking about it and doing the maths to see if I can afford it. If you want to build it I can certainly help.

James

8

1-meter wingspan… WOW, that is a monster. Very interesting to watch one of these built up with a proper structure, ribbing etc. What do they give you for the engine bay??

9

very cool…its gonna take alot of brass to put his one together*.*…looking forward to this build!!!

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This is bound to be awesome!

Gotta keep an eye on it.

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You get an engine, so I’m told. All this is in German, so Google Translate is my best friend!

If you search german ebay you may find someone who is willing to obtain all 140 issues and send them over… It will cost though!

12

On with the build.

This post - ISSUE 3

The Parts

The Build.

This time we start off by adding 3 frames

I need to do some painting before adding the other 2 frames. Dry fitting is essential just to make sure that you know which frames go where. 2 are the same, 1 isn’t. DON’T mix them up!
For those who want to see some scale. There is a 15cm/6inch ruler.

All 3 frames in position. still a little bit of painting to do, but getting the floor support frames in while I have the space is a good idea!

There we are! The cockpit floor frames in position and a couple of longitudnal frames underneath them too.

Picture of complete build to date.

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WOW!

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nice progress snap, yes, is the Deagostini that sold the Zero (i thinkin was 1/20 [:|] ) i brought one or two year ago the first number of the yamato 1/250 … the first number contains the main tower and a single bulkhead.

The kits will be really in high dimensions, as the picture show compared to an 1/72 seabat. Conscious of the yamato too many pieces and the too much final prices i stopped with the first number. My opinion is to prefere to have all pieces from the start. Also in italy these things during the pubblications increase prices in b***tard way [sml…]

following your great build, for now is enough to just see [;)]

15

Deagostini in Italy have promised me all 100 issues of the Zero (1/16) at 10.99 Euro per issue plus 25% delivery charge.

I am willing to go for this as I don’t think that this one will reach the UK. They are pretty unique models to build up. I agree that they are expensive, but so far the Stuka is going together really well ( as you can see) and I do want the Zero. The Stuka is by Hachette and I think is now available in Italy. If I find a link I will post it for you

Since the infection that I picked up in china damaged my heart to 75% permanent muscle and valve damage the specialists have prevented me from work, so I have to find things to challenge me and these partworks do that.

I do love doing plastic kit models, but these large scale stuff make you think about what you are actually doing and the scope for modding and extra detail is always there - and in a scale that I can get my fingers round!!!

James

16

Hi chaps. Back with another update.

On to Issue 4. another frame to build up, paint and some more longitudnal framing.

I am finding this build educational as well as fun! whoever decided do do this in brass made an excellent choice as wood I think would not have done this kit/partwork justice. As it is I am not only learning metalwork 101 but framing 101 too! Also I wonder if I can weigh in the brass frets and offcuts and get money on it!?

As the size and weight increases I wonder if Hachettes statement that you can hang it from your ceiling is a wise choice. I don’t want this thing crashing into me during the night! She’s big, heavy took a long time to build and deserves a proper case!

On with the build!

The Parts

The ruler is there for size reference.

The Build

This issue took some thinking about as I had to bend one of the parts without a guide. To get the curve right for the upper drabe divider I finally used my Xacto knife as it was the closest thing to the correct curves I needed. I finished off the curves by hand with plenty of dry fitting until the guide pegs fitted into their holes easily and the curves were symmetrical. The lower frame divider was just a couple of streightforward 90 degree bends which the part had etched in. Once done it was time to glue them in place.

Once the glue has set it was time for painting once again before compleating the frame. Both inner areas were painted with 3 thin coats of RLM02 and left to dry. not only does this show the correct colour where it should be on the inside of the frame but acts as it did on the original aircraft as a primer and protective coat.

Once everything is dry, time to add the frame part and close it all up

Notice how the locating pins stick through. Hachette in their instructions say you must use a side cutter to nip them off and then a wuick rub over with a file. I much prefer to use my trusty Proxxon small multitool with its flexible shaft and a grinding wheel on it. It is much quicker, neater and also grinds and flattens the pin off so it seales the hole and provides further joining of the parts as well as the glue.

Some juggling about and bending of a couple of the latereral spars was needed to fit this part. The spars were bent back into shape and glued into place

After the glue had dried I then added the longitudnal spars underneath.

Issue 5 complete. Just some RLM 02 & RLM 66 to put on. You can see also the colating pins at the top of the frame. These will be ground off.

Anybody jealous yet, of got any questions? Please ask!

James

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Cash in on the spare brass?? You know what, it’s probably worth something to a scrap dealer, it may help defray some of your initial costs! Jealous? JEALOUS!!! Maybe… [:$] [;)]

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Issue 5 build

We continue with the cockpit structure.

The parts

The Build.

We concentrate firstly in the front part of the cockpit and add a couple of frames

and a couple of longitudnal spars

Just as an item of interest, the square gap is where I thing that the bomb sight will fit… and that is the next issue

On to some more Longitudnal framing. I work on opposite sides when ever possible. Al though this is brass I work on the same method that I d when planking a wooden ship. What I do on one side I do on the other to avoid stress on the frame.

The last two pieces for this issue is two large interesting parts. Once the glue has set fully I will grind off any protuding locating pins.

Issue complete. Just a little grinding and painting to do. I am using a superglue mixture of both gel and thick. this way it doesn’t run and fulls the gaps (not that there are many at all) and is easily cleaned up to make neat joints with a sharp knife.

comments etc welcome

James

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[:P] even more complex and real

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I must say that I find this to be an interesting model. I would love to do a full frame model some time, though not necessarily of a Stuka or in 1/16th scale or even out of brass. Mostly because: a) I am more interested in planes of the RAF, b) I wouldn’t have a place to put a 1/16th scale model and c) at the moment, a kit like this is way outside my budget.

If I could find enough references, I would probably attempt to do a scratch build in 1/32 or 1/48 of a full frame Hurricane or Spitfire out of styrene once I have acquired enough skills. I did a bit of modeling in high school, but then left the hobby when I went to college due to lack of space and time. I am out now and have more space and time available and am working on getting back into the hobby. I plan on doing a few builds straight from the box and then working in more detailing once I have the basics down again.

I will be following this build though and using it as inspiration for a future project I am sure.