Simulating turret welds on the 1/72 DML T34

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

I’ve heard that some modelers use stretched sprue to simulate welds. How on earth do you glue it down without wrecking the detail on the turret. I’ve used a syringe and a needle pippete but I still ended up with the mark where the glue first hit the sprue and turret. The other difficulty was holding the sprue down against the turret. Kind of need four hands. In the end I gave up cleaned the marks off the turret, used Poly Stick and a needle to simulate the weld lines. Worked quite well, not sure if paint will affect it, but I’ve used this to give Photo Etch struts a less flat appearance in the past so it should work. Poly Stick is like white glue just a bit thicker.

I’m sure Stretched sprue would have worked well on a bigger part, but on a 1/72 turret its just too difficult to hold and manipulate, not to mention the risk of glue marks.

2

I tried with a hot pin with really good effects,just a little overscale as you can see below.
I tried with a thin strip of Milliput but its not the same effects all over the model due to scale and some stips are thinner than others.
As for the method you talk I first mark the places where I put sprue,first with an Olfa cutter,and then apply carefully the sprue with small spots of liquid glue.
After all I apply with a small brush more glue and let it run.


Heres the effect from a distance

I hope those helps…

3

Here’s a method I’ve used in 1/35th and 1/72.

  • Use two strips of tape to “frame” or “straddle” the area for the weld seam(s). This keeps putty/glue from going places you don’t want it, and keeps the seam uniform in appearance.

  • Apply the glue or putty between the tape strips.

  • Let glue/putty dry.

  • Examine the area. I use putty, because I can then sand down the seam somewhat if it looks a bit rough or too jagged. Never tried PVA/White glue so I can’t really comment about it. putty of course is much more permenent, whereas the glue method would allow for error correction. When satisfied, remove tape, and make minor adjustments or finer sanding if needed.

I’ve also heard of people using leftover decal material, such as the portions where manufacturers names and the like are, in 1/72 for weld seams. Archer Fine Transfers used to sell weld seam rub on transfers even. I’ve never tried decals, nor have I heard much about how good or bad that method is. It is interesting to consider though.

There’s a bit more finagling needed in 1/72 scale, and sometimes the angles of the parts or area is just too complex to get tape to cooperate around it. It’s not impossible. As with anything in this hobby, practice and experimentation always help.

4

i have just melted it to the chassis

5

Ahh Masking tape and scribing as a guide, now why didnt I think of that. Thanks for those tips :wink: