Setting the nets on the hms victory

I am building heller´s modle of the hms victory and i have a little problem. Ive reached the part where you have to do several nets and i am having touble setting them once they are done. I tried several glues but most dry white. also is there a way to set the entire net or do i have to apply the glue to each rope crossing

Welcome to the forum. We’ll all help if we can, but here’s a question to answer yours with:
Are you talking nets, like in boarding or hammock netting, or ratlines, that go on the shrouds?

If the former, try getting some tulle from a fabric store. That is a fine fabric mesh material that comes in different sizes and might be suitable for what you want. It will be white but you can stain it in tea for a more realistic colour.

If the latter, try white carpenter’s glue. Just a very tiny droplet and it will dry clear.

If this doesn’t help, come back and I’m sure others will have more ideas.
Regards,
Bruce

Hello,
Again, are you talking about the hammock netting? Then the stocking netting from the fabric store is the easy, but less scale alternative. I use a bead loom to make mine and use the same adhesives that I will mention for making ratlines. If these are the ratlines, are you using the supplied jig? I used heavy cotton coat thread and lay it out on the jig, then brush the entire jig with diluted white glue. I have just started experimenting with diluted expoy in mineral spirits and have had good results also. When dry, cut them out. I spray them with flat black or dark brown primer to give than a good weathered tar look. Another way to get good, tight nettings is to brush on a coat of urathane when done.

dragolu,

Here is what I did to make mine, First you need to find a well stocked railroad supply company or model shop or you can order from Walthers. See link at bottom of message. What you are looking for is the “chain link” fence material to make up a section of chain link fence for a railraod layout. It comes pre-made and in drak grey super thin and flexable. You can paint or “dirty it” with a wash. Remember these nettings were kept in place unless repaired. Also there were simple made up of rope. Let it dry and then cut it to the shape you need. Trust me it works perfect.

Walthers Fence material
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/650-4128

Jake,

Great, thanks for the information on the fence material, I never have seen it before. That will make quick work of a long process.

Scott

That’s o.K. I did it the hard way for the first time too. Live and learn.

Jake

Good tip Jake. I suppose that would make a good cargo net too.

Now let’s hope we were able to help dragolu …
Bruce

First of all thank you for the welcome and the suggestions.
Sorry for the terms mess. I was refering to the hammock nets.
I will try to find the materials you suggested but the problem is I live in Peru and we dont have such a wide variety of modeling supplys.
It looks like I will be using the diluted glue.
Have any of you tried medical gauze? it was suggested by a friend.
Also I have a samll problem with the fit of the masts.
The mizzen mast will not fit staight in my model. It seems to be a design flaw because the main deck and the castle deck mast holes are not alined when fixed to the main hull in the proper position. Any suggestions will be apreciated.
Finaly a small tip. I dont know if this is a very basik thing but if you mix liquid soap, a water based black paint making it very dilute and airbrush it over the brown deks you get a very nice effect that looks just like wood.
Just did it on my model and it looks great.
Thanks everyone.

The medical gauze may be too big for the scale, but take a look. Also, look at your hardware store for plastic window screen, I’ve seen some small sizes. that might work.

There is nothing wrong with the alignment of the mast holes, the foremast and main mast are supposed to lean forward a bit and the mizzen mast is slanted to the back. Email me direct and I will send you a few pictures of my VIctory.
Jake

Another material to consider is the mesh they make bridal veils out of. The finer mesh makes a good net and it is easily colored with an airbrush.

I haven’t used the medical gauze either but if you are careful when you cut it so not to disturb the threads then it could look ok. Try making some hammocks out of rolled up thin fabric to put in the net, and that might help everything look better.
Regards & Happy New Year,
Bruce

thanks everyone for helping me
Im trying the diluted white glue because i already had some at home
the test net came out ok but it needed more glue
ill try to find the other materials and see what looks best
i will also try making the hammok out of fabric and see if i can get them right.
Thanks for all your help

You are most welcome. Let us know how everything comes out.
Regards,
Bruce

sorry everyone for asking so many questions but you have been a lot of help. [:D]
One more. i am up to the part where i have to glue the bowsprit however i have been checking the manual and the rigging for this part is kind of complex, especially while it is fixed to the hull. So should I rig it beforehad or just do it the way the instructions say i should.
Any suggestion would be apreciated.
Thanks

Follow the instructions to wrap the bowsprit gammoning around the peak and the bowsprit. Make sure you clean out the oblong hole and use the correct diameter thread. I use coats and clark brand button and carpet,it is prefect diameter and lays correclty on the bowsprit. It will be about an hour wraping, here is what I have done.

Start your tie at the top and as you make the pass through the gammoning hole use a “a” clamp to hold tention on the thread comming out of the hole until you can make the next pass and take up the tention. Repeat as needed, then fix a small amount of glue to the lass pass, once dry then make about 8-10 wrap around the middle, I swear this is just about the hardest part to rig.

Jake

Make sure you mount the jib boom, martingale, and all required rigging blocks before fitting the bowsprit. This will make later rigging easier.
Then do the gammoning the way Jake said, and add the other rigging last. Since you are working in plastic remember not to pull too tight or the parts will bend, also try and work evenly on both sides for the same reason. Some modelers replace the outer sprit with wood or brass rod to make a stronger part, but if you are careful you should be ok.
Bruce

I too have replaced the outer sprit with wood or brass, but drilling a hole in such small size is a fun thing :wink: