Sd.Kfz. 101 Ausf. A - HobbyBoss - 1/35

Starting another one with the Afrika Korps theme…

The kit

Painting scheme

The 5th Panzer Regiment had its light tank companies equipped with the PzKpfw I, so their first battles in Africa were against British light armored vehicles. This Panzer I had a light layer of Gelbbraun (RAL 8000) over the original Dunkelgrau (RAL 7021) base. The crew left the tactical number exposed on both sides of the turret, outlined in white; indicating the vehicle as the 3rd unit, from the 3rd platoon, of the 8th company. The white DAK insignia was painted over the original color (gray) on both sides, and on the left side of the front hull plate. These vehicles used to have a white Balkenkreuz with black painted on the left side of the rear engine plate.

Main reference

The 5th Light Division entering Agedabia on April 2, 1941, after the city was abandoned by the British contingent, which retreated in the face of the rapid advance of German units. In the image, we see one of the PzKpfw I Ausf. A, probably the ‘883’, with the Gelbbraun color applied over the Dunkelgrau.

Brief history
Due to the embargo imposed by the Treaty of Versailles, after the First World War, the Germans were prohibited from producing and acquiring armored vehicles for their army, among other restrictions.
Even with the prohibition, in 1933 the Heerewaffenamt opened a contract for the mass production of an armored vehicle between 4 and 7 tons. Among the various proposals presented, the chosen one was Henschel with Krupp’s engine. Production began in mid-1934 under the designation Panzerkampfwagen I A (Sd.Kfz. 101).

Next, we have the table with the general data of the armored vehicle:
Manufacturer - Henschel, MAN
Production period - 1934 – 1936
Units built - 477 vehicles
Weight - 5.4 tons (5400 kg)
Length - 4.06 meters (13.19 ft)
Width - 2.10 meters (6.76 ft)
Height - 1.7 meters (5.64 ft)
Engine - KRUPP M 305 with 4 cylinders, air-cooled, with 60 hp/2500 R.P.M.
Transmission - 5 forward gears and one reverse
Track width - 280 mm
Armor - Ranging from 7 mm to 13 mm
Armament - 2 MG13 machine guns of 7.92 mm
Ammunition - 3125 rounds
Fuel - 2 tanks of 72 liters (38 gallons) located in the engine compartment
Range - 200 km on the road or 140 km off-road
Maximum speed - 37 km/h (23mph)

The Sd.Kfz. 101 was originally developed as a training vehicle to assist in the training process of Panzer crews; however, the German high command, upon getting involved in the Spanish Civil War between 1937 and 1939, sent the Condor Legion equipped with the small Panzer I into the conflict. This campaign was the baptism of fire for the Panzer units, and it also demonstrated that despite being inadequate compared to its Russian competitor, the BT-7, when well employed, it could yield interesting results. The small one also participated in the Polish Campaign, the occupation of the Netherlands, and the campaigns in Norway and France. Already entering obsolescence, it was initially used in the Campaigns of Greece, Africa, and the Soviet Union (Operation Barbarossa).

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Work has begun…

First stage of assembly completed.

Assembly of the transmission

Installation of the transmission, battery rack, and engine firewall

View of the engine compartment

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Progress is looking great. That interior looks very detailed. Any plans for weathering?

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Initially, I was going to do the entire interior and leave the hatches open… but I ended up giving up. I will do some things for practice and others, in the tower, but I don’t intend to spend much time on it. Even because the figure I will use is based on the reference image.

Second stage of assembly.

Assembly of the lower hull sides and the rear of the engine compartment. I applied primer A.MIG-2026.

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I finished the tracks, and it was quite a bit of work.
They fit well and the pins that came with them make the work faster.

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Updating the assembly…

Stages 3 and 4 completed.
After assembling the suspension and wheels (without any issues), I installed the tracks. The manual says 87-88 original plastic links, however, I had to use 89 to keep it as it is, I’m thinking of adding one more to increase the drop.

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Assembly stages 5 and 6 completed

I painted the transmission according to some material I saw from AMMO, but since it will be hidden, it doesn’t make much difference.

The side walls I used RAL 9001 CREMEWEISS (a.mig-0017) and the floor with SHADOW RUST (a.mig-0043).

The engine ended up with the starter entry crooked, I only noticed after it was installed. It is not yet fixed, I will paint it outside with GREY BASE (a.mig-908).

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Stages from 7 to 9

The engine will be hidden.

Actually, the entire interior won’t be exposed.

Fit test

The photoetched parts are still to come.

Gluing the top part of the hull

I really liked these 3D printed hooks from TREX Studios, even though their color disappears on my cutting board, they look much better than the PE from the set and the kit.

A little bit of bodywork on the rear

Handles for opening access to the engine and fuel.

I found a piece that had gone missing from its spot :smile:

Front view

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Update…

I had to grind down the lower ring of the tower. It was fitting too tightly and it was very difficult to rotate the tower, but after sanding it, it turned out very, very good. I used the micro grinder with 180 grit sandpaper and then gave the blade a final clean and adjustment.

Interior of the turret ready for primer.

Detail of the front hooks.

Cover for the engine lid and disperser for the fume loads. The chains are still missing here.

Top part of the turret ready to receive the hooks.

Overview of our little boy ready. I haven’t glued the parts of the turret yet.

I still need to fix this commander’s arm…

Front detailing
The “ready-made” 3D clamps from Ammo by Mig are no good, they are too fragile and become translucent when in contact with glue, which makes the work much more difficult. The tools are better than those in the kit, but there are better sets in photoetched or even as scrap from other models.

Using 3D tool clamps is a marvel, they have good detailing and don’t give the hassle of photoetches.

Detailing of the rear

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Looking sharp. Whose tracks are those? They are metal, aren’t they?

@Pop,

They are made of metal and already come with the pin cut to the correct size. I bought these caterpillars on AliExpress in October 2021. They are from the R-model brand (they might be copies of the Friulmodel tracks) the link is below:

https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005003049949519.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.776.7caccaa4zMFs2X&gatewayAdapt=glo2bra

Disassembled for painting

For the tracks, I used the Metallic Tracks Burnishing Fluid (a.mig-2020). Just place the product in a plastic or glass container to cover the entire piece and submerge it. In a few seconds, the reaction begins. I used gloves and tweezers for handling, and after reaching the color below, I removed it from the product and let it dry on absorbent paper.

Primer applied in the color Brown Oxide (a.mig-2026).

In the picture, I used the Grey primer (a.mig-2024).

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Interior of the turret

The camera isn’t good.

But all that interior will be hidden.

Base coat painting with RAL 7021 Dunkelgrau (a.mig-008)

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I decided not to turn on the compressor, so I finished the drawing.

Uninformed
Base color: A.MIG-0005 + A.MIG-0004 (2:1)
Lighting color: A.MIG-0005 + A.MIG-F505 (2:1)
Shadow color: A.MIG-1001 (wash)

Boots and belt
Base color: ATOM-20058
Lighting color: A.MIG-0914
Shadow color: Vallejo 70882

Glasses
Base color: A.MIG-0046

Medals
Base color: A.MIG-0005 + A.MIG-0191

Handkerchief
Base color: A.MIG-0049 + Vallejo 70814

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I fixed the markings as much as I could; in fact, I lost count of how many times I redid the process until I reached this point. In the previous times when I had used stencils, I had two factors in my favor that I didn’t have in this situation:

  1. I had the ideal number of stencils to set up the number outside and paint it all at once, and I had the ideal number of stencils to assemble the number outside and paint it all at once, and
  2. The application area was larger. The application space was larger.
    It wasn’t perfect, but it was done with care… According to Cortella (Brazilian philosopher), doing something with care means doing the best you can with the conditions you have… in my case, I didn’t have experience.⁣ :smile:

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Continuing with the painting.
I used RAL 8000 Gelbbraun from Ammo (a.mig-0013) diluted in a 70/30 ratio with Ammo Acrylic Thinner (a.mig-2000).
I tried to leave some stains (imperfections) in the coverage of this color over the Dunkelgrau RAL 7021.
I didn’t apply a mask over the markings, and the little bit of paint that “stuck” on top I cleaned with a damp brush before letting it dry completely, I did this on the Africa Corps markings and the Balkenkreuz on the rear.

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Wear and chipping

The weathering of RAL 8000 Gelbbraun was done using the drybrush technique with RAL 7021 Dunkelgrau.

Then the chipping using a brush and the sponge technique with 3 colors:

  1. RAL 8000 Yellow Brown (a.mig-0013) + Matt White (a.mig-0050) (50/50)
  2. RAL 7021 Dark Grey (a.mig-0008)
  3. Chipping (a.mig-0044)

I painted the wheel tires with Rubber & tires (a.mig-0033)

The teeth of the tractor pulley of the track with Matt Aluminium (a.mig-0194)

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Today…

I painted the tools and utensils. I also painted the tow cable, but I didn’t take any photos.
Regarding the tools:

  • Metal: a.mig-0045 as a base, then wash with a.mig-3031, and finally gun-metal pigment applied with a sponge brush.
  • Wood: base a.mig-0036, drybrush with a.mig-0036+a.mig-0044 (50/50)
  • Bakelite (wire cutter handle): a.mig-0014

A preview of the base…

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Great paint and weathering

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