Scratch-Building the Boeing Model 1 in 1/72 Scale

Modeling Subjects Airliners and Civil Aircraft
1

I thought of posting this in the ‘Scratchbuilding’ forum, but on the suggestion of Modelcrazy (yet another Steve) I decided to put it here. The build is being done for the ‘Boeing Build’ group build, with crossovers to the ‘Floats & Boats’ and ‘OTS (1/72) Small Is Big’ GBs.

I joined the forums about a month ago looking for some help, and immediately wondered why I didn’t sign on years earlier. Mainly because most of my models are built for gaming, and not really meant for serious display That said, when I saw the Boeing Group Build I remembered I have an old Merlin kit of the Boeing Model 40. Then I looked around and found that there was a much better resin kit. Then I found kits for the Boeing 80 tri-motor and the Model 200 ‘Monomail’. All of these were running through my head when I re-read the thread from the beginning and realized that it was done in honor of the first flight of the first Boeing aircraft, the Boeing & Westervelt Seaplane, on June 1, 1916.

I did some looking around and found that nobody was tackling this subject, and decided I had to try. It has been a couple of weeks at least since I announced this, and wondered if people were starting to wonder if I was serious about it. The delay has mainly been due to finishing up another project and, since there was no kit available, what it would take to make it happen. Lots of thinking, lots of research, almost no action.

The plane itself should be easy enough, being of fairly straightforward rectangular cross-section. I found a lot of good photographs of the original two planes and the 1966 full-sized flying replica which now hangs in the Boeing Museum.

I also found a good set of 3-view plans. I don’t know how accurate they are, but they look pretty good. I used my favorite desktop publishing program, PageStream, to resize them to proper 1/72 scale dimensions given by Peter Bowers in his book Boeing Aircraft from 1916 to the Present. I printed out 4 copies - one for a master and three more for cutting out for sizing the plastic version.

In the background is an architectural ruler I picked up when I took a drafting class back in 1975. It has six scales, the smallest being 60 feet to the inch, or 1/720 scale. Since this translates easily to 1/72 it comes in handy for building in that scale, the only problem being that each scale foot is divided into 10 parts instead of 12 inches. I just ordered a real 1/72 ruler that divides into 12 inches and also does metric. It should be here soon.

That little bit started, I have three major tasks ahead:

  1. The cockpit. I have no pictures showing the whole cockpit, though I do have a couple of partials. I emailed the Boeing Museum asking for help with the layout and seat construction. I’m still waiting on a reply.

  2. Louvres. The plane had three rows of thirteen louvres on each side of the cowling. I purchased some HO scale railroad louvres, but before they arrived i realized they were already wrong. The originals were slanted to the rear, and the ones I ordered were almost certainly going to be straight. I’ve bee practicing cutting my own with varied results.

I’ve tried thin plastic. paper and even aluminum foil. Tomorrow is a trip to the local hobby shop to look at Evergreen quarter-round plastic rod.

  1. The Floats. Finding some that are a close enough match to work from might get expensive, so I’m going to have to learn to make my own.

Anyway, though I only have the plans so far, much progress is being made inside my head.

2

You might consider building it from wood, like the old flying model kits. However, since you don’t intend to fly it, you can build it with basswood instead of balsa. Makes for a stronger model, and weight won’t matter. Cover it with doped tissue- many hobby shops still have tissue and dope.

3

I should have mentioned- if you like Boeing early commercial aircraft, Checzk Models made a very nice kit of the Boeing model 40.

4

Sorry I haven’t responded sooner. I’ve been locked out of the forum. I’m currently posting from my local library trying to fix the problem

I work almost exclusively in plastic, so building one from wood isn’t really in my field of interest. I have the old Merlin kit of the Boeing 40, and the resin kit was one of the options I’ve considered. There is also a resin kit of the 200 and a nice vac kit of the Model 80 trimotor. I may do one of those when this is finished.

I do appreciate the suggestions.

5

After a couple of days off I got back to building. Today’s project was to cut out copies of the sides, top and bottom and glue-stick them to some very thin plastic. So thin, in fact, that the paper and glue-stick made the plastic curl. Then I had to measure and draw the bulkheads. They aren’t perfect right now, but they are oversized so it will be easy to sand them down later.

Everything is cut out and ready for assembly.

6

After a week of frustration and anger I figured I’d better post an update. I’ve tried over and over again to perfect the louvres for the cowling, with no luck. I’ve tried cutting and pulling, cutting and punching, and gluing plastic rod. The .020 quarter-round rods looked the best, but were just too large, and that’s the smallest they make them. They do make a smaller fully round rod, but they just don’t look right.

I found a company that makes louvre punches specifically for 1/72 scale, but I need to call them first, so that has to wait until Monday. I’m also considering trying to sculpt the things, but there are 78 of them so that’s a last resort.

Meanwhile the PE cockpit interior set I ordered arrived yesterday, so I’ll divert my attention to that for a couple of days.

7

I’m more than a little embarrassed over not posting anything for so long, but at least I have an excuse (and a note from the doctor). I spent the week following my last post fiddling with louvres some more, still with no better results than before. I finally broke down and bought a punch-set from UMMA. They say they are releasing a set of louvre punches to go with it, but they won’t be out intil the fall, far too late for this project.

I finally set it aside and started on the fuselage. The first step was to experiment with the ribs. I’m used to scribing out the ribs, leaving small grooves into which I glue nylon thread. This method works pretty well, but is quite tedious. I decided to try a method I had read about years ago, but was never brave enough to actually start. This is to use a straight-edge and a scribing tool to scribe the ribs from the inside, which leaves a bulge on the outside. I glued the fuselage floor, forward frame and right side together, then scribed the ribs into both sides.

The tool used was a ball-point pen, which should be obvious from the black lines. I recently read an article by a builder who uses a bamboo skewer, sanded to have a round end. I may try the same with a toothpick next time.

I took that picture on March 12. The next day I came down with the worst flu I’ve ever had. I lay down to take a little nap and woke up coughing and a screaming headache. I slept an average of 15 hours per day for the next few days. Finally a friend drove me to the clinic, where they told me my fever was 104. Some antibiotics and a whole lot of sleep later, and the fever went away. I’ve spent another two weeks recovering, still sleeping a lot. Also still coughing, but the the headaches are gone. I’ve been meaning to get back to work, but just haven’t had the energy.

Today I started again. The only interior photo of the plane shows what appears to be a wicker lining, something unusual in planes of the period. I was going to use a piece of bedsheet to get the texture, but now I can’t find it. I used a piece of coarse paper instead. The interior was sprayed with Testors Sand (ANA 616). After that dried I streaked on some Testors Wood. I’m not completely happy with it, but it’s a start.

Finally I took a picture of the scribed ribs from the outside.

Again, sorry for the delay, but it is still happening.

8

I like that rib scribing technique Steve. It looks pretty effective to me. Good luck with the project, you have a great start.

And I can sure sympathize about the flu. I was stricken on a Sunday in early March and felt like hell for almost two weeks. My flu shot didn’t help much I guess. Here’s hoping your recovery continues!

Gary

9

Love viewing scratchbuild projects. They do take time, but always a delight to see.

10

Another two-and-a-half weeks gone by, and I’m starting to despair. My computer started having major problems, which ended in a complete reformat, and then re-installing everything the way I like it. It’s true, but it also feels like an excuse when I type it out. And it is, because like some others I also suffer from lethargy, and when I do have time I sometimes don’t have the inclination.

Anyway, the cockpit interior is almost complete. I had some perfect steering wheels from a Vickers Vimy kit - circular with four arms. I set them aside a long time ago and now I can’t find them. I came up with some etched brass wheels, but dropped one and lost it. Finally I took the steering wheels out of a DC-3 kit. They only have three posts and are open at the top, but I mounted them upside down and once it’s finished they should look just fine.

First picture shows the etched throttle quadrants, and the second is of the almost-complete interior. I need to do the instrument panels, but it should be together tomorrow.

11

Only four days this time!

I decided the instrument panels might be better left until the fuselage was assembled, so I could sand the frames to the right shape before the panels go in. I ordered a pre-colored seat belt set from 1001 Model Kits, and after nearly two months of not hearing anything they finally emailed me saying they couldn’t get them. At least they refunded my money.

12

I frequently use masking tape for seat belts. The run of the mill hardware store tape- the tan stuff- is a good color for belts. Cut strips to a three inch (scale) width.

Depending on scale, you can just color in buckles with silver magic marker, or for larger scale bend buckles up out of silver colored wire.

13

Thanks for that, Don. The British cockpit set I bough has belts as well, but the ones I ordered were pre-colored. I’ve been considering masking tape, and your advice has pushed me further in that direction. I’ll give it a try today.

14

This is looking fantastic Steve. It takes an enormous amount of skill to scratchbuild a subject.
Steve

15

Thanks, Steve. I had hoped to have the cockpit done today, but a neighbor invited me to lunch, which turned into a jam session. which turned into…

It reminds me of a joke I heard awhile back: “I was going to take over the world today, but I saw something shiny.”

At the rate I’m going it should be done in time for the 200th anniversary. [:$]

16

LOL, I’m have the same time schedule for a 1/200 747 I’m working on but I’m not scratching it. The model 1 is looking sweet. My hats off to you sir. [t$t]

17

Minimalist instrument panels. I looked for some instrument decals with black needles on a white background, but couldn’t find any that would fit the etched-brass bezels I had. I finally glued the bezels in and then dabbed on the white paint with a .020 brass wire and did the needles with a .008 steel guitar string. When they were dry I dabbed on a little Micro Krystal Kleer for the glass. The magneto switches are a couple more bezels filled in with copper paint, and a piece of the guitar string glued in place. Once the upper deck is on it should look okay.

18

AmazingAmazing scratchbuilding skills steve.

19

A google image search for specific instruments will find loads of instrument images. If you have a decent graphics program (try GIMP for free if nothing else) you can resize them for the scale you are building. Print these on glossy photo paper and mount behind the bezels. Use one of those windows/transparency cements.

20

Thanks, Don. I’ll remember that for next time.