Hey guys,
What’s the easiest way to figure out the scaling for reproducing painting patterns from the instructions in order to make masking pieces? Let’s say I have a 1/48 scale F-4G that I want to make “cut-outs” for the Euro 1 paint job. I want to scan and enlarge the painting and decal instruction pages for the paint jobs, then trace and cut out the patterns before loosely attaching them to the plane before airbrushing. Thanks!
Matt
You are never going to get it exact because the instruction pictorials are two dimensional whereas your model is three dimensional. For example, looking at the top view of the model in the instructions, there may be a camo pattern running down the side of the fuselage that looks real small but in reality, when looking at things from the side it is pretty big.
But … to answer your question:
Measure the EXACT distance between two points on the instruction sheet. The wing tips are a good choice, from the back of the prop spinner to the back of the rudder is another good choice.
Measure the EXACT dimension between the same two points on your model. Make sure you hold your ruler, tape measure, whatever so that it doesnt bend over the top. You want to measure the horizontal distanec between the two points.
Divide the measurement from your moedl by the measurement from your instructions. Say your model is 14" from wing tip to wing tip and the instructions are 10" between the same two points. Divide 14 by 10 and you get 1.4 which equates to a 140% enlagement. If you have fractional inches, such as 3/16 or 7/8 or something like that, divide the top number by the bottom number to get a decimal inch. For example, 7 13 / 16 = 7 + (13 / 16) = 7.8125"
Scott,
Thanks, I was using the scale calc tool and trying to figure out the measurements in real life and then the measurements on the drawings, and taking that scale and the scale I WANT to use and figuring out that way…I overthunk it, I think… Thanks for the advice
It would be hard to do it that way because the illustrations in the instructions aren’t at any scale.
I did the camo for my P-40 that way and it worked very well. I printed them on heavy card stock, cut them out, and stuck them on the model with some rolls of masking tape. That lifted the edges of the card stock up a little and when I sprayed them it gave a nice soft edge to the pattern. It turned out to be a lot of work though, but the results look pretty good.
If your kit is not yet built, put the parts on a flatbed scanner, and print it. Draw the patterns on the print, and cut them out. Use heavyweight paper. Much easier than trying to rescale something that’s printed.
Hope this helps.
Not to mention, the illustrations are often incorrect. I’m currently working on several P-40F/Ls in Middlestone and Dark Earth over Azure Blue. Most of these P-40s have identical camo patterns, having been painted with rubber mats as guides. I have decals from three different manufacturers. None of these patterns is identical, and none completely matches the photographs I have of the planes.
I’m finding it easiest, though time-consuming, to cut Tamiya tape for my patterns.
Mark
I do this alot. I measure the length of the model and then measure the length of the illustration on the instruction sheet. I then divide the length of the model by the length of the illustration ie: model is 12" and illustration is 6" = 12/6= 2 or blow up the illustration by 200% on a xerox machine. I also add in a fudge factor of 10-15% since the model is not 2d.
I make a couple of copies and cut out masks accordingly in plain paper and stick them over blue tac or sim. Since you are spraying light coats, the paint won’t soak through
-as shown on my p-400
