Okay, what is the difference if any between sanding films and sandpaper?
Nothing really. The only sanding “films” I have ever used are the ones made by Testors. The only difference I noted was the backing material (a plastic film rather than cloth or paper) and the price. theoreticaly the sanding film may be a wet/dry where as most sand papers are not, depending upon the bonding agent of the grit to the backing.
Stikpusher,
Thank you, and I presume that there is little to no difference between a “sanding stick” and an emeryboard used for shaping one’s nails.
On either the sandpaper (provided that it is “wet/dry”) and sanding film that it’s best to start of using it dry and then using it wet to get the best finish, right? When sanding, wet or dry, is it advisable for one to use their spray booth if one has one?
FWIW, I try to avoid dry sanding as much as possible on visible surfaces, preferring instead to wet sand. For that, I usually put a little water in a wide bowl and periodically dip the wet/dry sandpaper into it to get it wet and then sand away. I do all this at my work table.
I would avoid adding any particulate matter into a spray booth as you don’t want to stir up a dust cloud when you paint. If necessary you can wet sand over a sink.
Sanding sticks are usually better quality than emery boards. The multi grit nail boards are a better choice than a basic emery board. Those, like sanding sticks, usually have some flex and give in them. As far as wet or dry sanding goes, unless your using a power tool throwing out the dust, you really won’t need a mask or booth.
Thank you, I can see how especially on a visible (particularly large) visible surface that wet sanding from start to finish would be the best way to go. As does keeping a shallow bowl of water on had to periodically re-moisten the sandpaper/film.
On the spray booth I was thinking that if one has one that has an exhaust fan, that said exhaust fan would, as with the paint fumes, pull the dust/particulate matter out and away from the working surface(s).
Stikpusher,
Thank you, sadly the LHS that I go to most often doesn’t appear to carry sanding sticks. They do have a nice little sanding/polishing kit for just under $30.00 that I will be picking up Monday. There is another LHS that I’ll be checking out next week.
I rode past there “earlier today,” but sadly I’d missed them by about 25 minutes. The nice thing is that they’re for all intents and purposes “just around the corner” from the LHS that I’ve been going to. The “sad” thing is that they’re (depending on how I go) somewhere between 5 - 10 miles from me.
The next closest is more into R/C planes, helis, cars, tanks, etc. so other then paint and other finishing tools they’re not going to be a good source. Sadly, I don’t know of any hobby shops closer to me then those. The good thing is that I LOVE to ride and distance isn’t an issue with me. I’ll ride as far as I need to in order to get where I need/want to go.
I do/will draw the line at having to make multiple trips to the same “far” shop in the same day because I got a “brain cramp” and forgot my wallet. But other then that it doesn’t faze me to make a 10, 15, 20 or more trip to a location to get something or to go where I want/need to go. And if I need to pick up something of decent size/weight I do have a trailer to pull behind my bike.
In the same aisle of the local Walmart/Kmart/Target where you would buy Emery boards, they will also sell finger nail buffing sticks which are essentially the same as sanding sticks, just with a more girly color.
Also Squadron sells a good variety of sanding sticks. The benefit to modeling sanding sticks is that they are normally color coded like the Testors sanding films. Black is coarse, tan medium, gray fine and red is extra fine.
Rob,
How do the prices compare to the sanding sticks marketed for modeler’s? The color of the sticks really don’t matter to me, other then they do their job.
The next time that I’m in Target (I’m not that big of a fan of Walmart nor is the closest one all that close to me) I’ll check and see what they have in the way of sanding sticks.
Speaking of Squadron, how is their filler putty, and what is the difference between their green and white?
I do not know how well they compare. I tend to buy a set of sanding sticks from Squadron.com every so often. They run about $10 for a set of 5 (super fine, extra fine, fine, medium & coarse). I often add individual sticks ($2 ea.) to an order if I’m under their limit for going to the next higher shipping amount.
I don’t know how much they are at the various discount stores or if they are sold individually or with different grits or not. My wife and daughters use them all the time.
As to the difference between green stuff and white stuff, I read a long time ago that the white stuff was finer and geared towards aircraft modelers who needed to sand down the gaps really smooth and the green stuff was more pliable and better for armor modelers.
DC- I was just thinking that anything I can do to lessen paint mishaps is a good idea. My AB tends to use slightly higher working pressure than I see others using, so I have enough problems with floating cat hair as it is.[:)]
As Rob noted, green putty is slightly grittier than the white and it does seem to be less brittle when cured than the white stuff. I use the green more for major work and the white as a fine finisher.
As I use more sandpapers than sticks, I buy bulk packs of them at Lowe’s or whatnot and get the fine grit polishing paper from my LHS. What sticks I use I get from whatever women’s toiletries aisle is closest. I found a black 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper at some home store that works really well with those Squadron putties, sorry I can’t remember the brand.
I’ve found a few sheets of automotive sandpaper (here in Canada at Canadian Tire) ranging from 400 grit through 2000 grit. I take a small stick of balsa wood, shape it slightly (a taper at one end, a round at the other) and superglue pieces of a grade of sandpaper all around a stick, repeating the process for each grade, then marking the grade on the stick. Pretty cheap solution when compared to buying sanding sticks from a hobby store, the automotive paper is very good, and the balsa allows me to shape the sanding stick as I like.
One difference between sandpaper and some of the sanding films or pads is that some of the later work better on compound curves than sandpaper. I prefer some of those sponge-like pads. They also seem to give more easily over raised detail, allowing you to get into the areas between the bumps better. I particularly like those grid-like pads by 3M. However, the finest they make is 400- would like to see the same product in finer grits.
Rob,
Thank you for the information. As I said, the next time I’m at Target I’ll check 'em out.
I think that they are, but as I said I’ll check 'em out the next time that I’m at Target.
So it’s probably a good idea to keep a tube of both on hand, how long does it last, i.e. how long before the tube dries out rendering it unusable? Would I also be correct in presuming that if the green is better suited to armor models that it would also lend itself better to civilian cars as well?
Dre,
I understand that, and I see your cat hair and raise you feathers (and their dander) and urticating hairs from my T’s.
Thank you for the insight on the green and white putty.
That’s pretty much what I was thinking of doing, i.e. getting the various sandpapers in “bulk” from Home Depot/Lowes and getting the polishing paper/kits from the LHS, the same with the sanding sticks and Target/CVS/Walgreens.
Andrew,
Thank you for that hint, as that is something that I was also thinking, i.e. going to an auto supply store for finer grit paper.
On your homemade sanding sticks, I can’t remember reading somewhere where someone had taken the head from a battery powered toothbrush and cut the bristles off of it and used it as an “orbit sander” for modeling.
The nice thing about making one’s own sanding sticks is that they can make custom shaped sticks to fit their particular needs at the time.
Don,
That makes sense. That’s better then the “finest” grit I’ve been able to find at my local hardware store.
My [2cnts]. I have found a putty that is really great to use. It is Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. You can get it in most Auto supply stores. It goes on great, dries in about 5 minutes, and is really easy to sand. It comes in a large 16oz. (1 lb.) tube so it will last you forever. Oh, in case you don’t like the color, it’s red so it will need primer over it. I used to use another putty called Acryl Blue which worked about the same but I can’t find it in the area any more. I used to use it back in the '70s and '80s on my R/C boats, both wood and fibreglass. That’s when I found out that it worked great on plastic too. Hope that this helps.
Jim [cptn]
I also use a big tube of Bondo for large areas as a surfacer. For about $6 or so, you get a huge tube. Squadron putty is $5 for a tube that might have half as much (tube in front of me says 2.3 oz). It doesn’t always last long once it’s been opened though.
Jim,
I’ve gotta say that I hadn’t thought about using Bondo (or any other body putty from the automotive world) as a filler for scale models. But as long as it isn’t too caustic it should work.
So let’s see “non-specific” modeling supplies:
a) fine/very fine/ultra fine sandpaper/emery cloth
b) “sanding sticks” i.e. emery boards used for manicures and pedicures
c) bondo (and presumably other body fillers/putty
d) wet/dry sandpaper/emery cloth of various grits
e) battery powered toothbrush with the bristles removed to be used as an “orbit sander,” selfmade danding sticks
f) various dental picks and tools for scribing panel lins
g) toothpicks, Q-Tips, and whatnot
What have I missed?