Hello modelling friends.
One of the problems I have while building is not acually the painting process, weathering or airbrushing, its something that is so simple that some may laugh. Its sanding. The basic of all modelling skills. I cant seem to get this right for some reason. Whenever I try to sand the spure gates I always end up mis-forming parts. On flat edges, I cant help but to make a little U shaped intent where the spure gate is, on round wheels or round parts in general, I cant help but to flatten them. I have tried numerous sanding techniques including sanding with sanding sticks, and sand paper. From low grit (200) to higher (600) with no sucess. Trying to sand something with a straight line (evergreen plastic sheet) is end up making the part deformaed by sanding a little too much on one side even while rotating the part.
Maby I am a little obsessed with this issue but for some odd reason this is really dampering my hobby building enjoyment. On all the work in progress pictures I see on the internet, all the locations on the parts that were attached to the spure are perfectly blended in almost like they were non existant. How is this done? I always and up obliterating sharp edges, flattening round objects and, or slightly distorting the part. Like I said, I have tried a lot of sanding techniques, with no avail. I cant help but to wonder how the airplane or car modellers do it by sanding the gates so well that under a coat of gloss or lacquer (or even on bare plastic) the sanding gate is non evident and no parts disformed even slightly.
If anyone can give me some good tips, walthoughs or tutorials that would be great.
Thanks
[:D]
Some like to sand them off and other prefer to trim the nubs off with a sharp blade. As long as you are careful both should work fine but I think the sanding method leaves more of a chance to get the same kind of problems you are describing.
This is what works for me. I use a quality nail clipper to nip off the nub really close to the part. A couple of light passes with a fine sanding stick usually finishes it off. You can see what I mean at the link to my site below. I will add that extra care is needed for clear parts s this plastic is generally more brittle and may crazes that clear areas when using the clipper. I don’t get in as close and finish off with a very sharp… as in new… #10 blades.
I use a nail clipper too to cut it off from the sprue and then I use a very sharp #11 blade to trim off the excess. You need to be carefull not to remove too much plastic but over time, you can get very good at it. It is really important to replace the blade regularly. In some art stores, they sell those blades in package of 500 blades. I don’t remember what was the price but that’s what I’ll buy next time.
Are you wet or dry sanding? You should always wet sand, as it eliminates the harmful dust, and gives better results. You can wet sand with the sticks too(foam core ones). Also, use lighter pressure, less is more. A few more passes with light pressure will be better heavy pressure. Slowly work your way to the right height.
Thanks for the imput fellas.
Steven 99% of my sanding is done by wet sanding. I always start with a heavy grit (200 - 300) and work my way up to finer grits. After a little sanding, I check my work from all angles and always find that its is not 100% flush with the surrounding plastic. There is always the thought of trying to achieve a better finish. This is very evident when I sometimes check the part by polishing it with the buffing pad (Squadron sanding sticks) This is what gets me into trouble, as I then proceed sanding again and slightly start distorting parts, but I can never stop myself form always sanding more. For most armor kits I build this finish is ok and under a coat of paint is un-noticable, however I do want to build a few planes in my life (Including the MiG-15 with its metallic finish) and maby some car kits.
Thanks again for the tips gentleman.
[:D]
It took years of practice for me to get great results, and I still make mistakes. Get a few cheapie aircraft models for practice and hone your technique. There will be less pressure to get it perfect on a model that “doesn’t” matter. Good luck.