Has anyone used the rub on transfers that you can buy at hobby lobby.
They are only $1.99 per sheet and have 3 to 10 of each letter depending on type and style. O bought 5 packs last night and when I got home I saw that they where 50% off. So I am thinking about buying all that they had left which was about 10 packs. Any input[?]
Thanks in advance
Skip
Skip, I’ve used the dry transfer letters on a service truck I built. I put the letters on clear decal film them applied them just like normal decals, worked fine for lettering.
I tried them on a c47 I was working on and they seem to work ok on flat OD paint.
Going to try them on a NMF next see what they look like.
Real funny thing is I went back next day and bought all the rest they had (12 pkgs in all) and I saw a bag with brass tubes of all sizes and dia for S14.99 and thought well I have that 40% off coupon. Took all I had plus the wifes stuff up to check out , paid with th CC and left. When I got home the wife called me into the frontroom to let me know that they gave us our discounts for our stuff ( almost everything was 50% off ) and then that they had also gave us another 50% off everything at the end .
I went back today to let them look at the paper from the sell and to pay the diff on it. The guy in charge said not to worry about it and then he told the girl at reg to give me another 10% of the model I was buying with a half off coupon for the model kits [:)]
Sometimes it pays to do the right thing [;)]
Skip
I have used a lot of the Woodland Scenics dry transfer letters along with other railroad numbers. I have had good luck just rubbing them down on flat paint then sealing with a flat finish, but I suspect they are just riding on the high points of the surface and not really down good. However, they seem to be staying OK. Problem here is, you have to be dead on where you want it our you have to do it over.
I have very good luck rubbing them off on clear decal sheet, cut them out, then apply them just like any decal. Works great. If I am having a problem with the transfer lifiting or coming off the decal sheet, I will seal them with Krylon or Microscale decal film. Works great.
For, say, serial numbers on an aircraft tail, it is better to put them on as individual numbers and not try to put them all in a row on the decal sheet and cut them out as one long number. I could never get them lined up right on the decal sheet. I can line them up better individually on the model.
I’ve used dry transfers by Archer Transfers and they work well. Good detail and they went on well.
The biggest problem I’ve encountered with dry transfers is the shelf life of the product. Once you’ve opened the package, used some of the transfers and returned the unused transfers to the package they’re only good for about 6 months. After that, they lose the ability to stick to a surface.
Some of the older modelers may remember when Letraset produced a line of dry transfers for aircraft and armor back in the 70s and 80s.