RLM paint colors and Photo-etch details

Modeling Subjects Aircraft
1

Hello everyone.

Getting back into modeling from being out of it for a number of years and have a few questions.

I bought Revell’s 1/32 Junkers JU88 and the instructions state the RLM paint code for the upper surfaces are Black Green RLM 70 and Dark Green RLM 71. I was going to use Model Master acrylics, but the color in the un-opened bottle looks nothing like what I think it should be. The two colors are almost identical and I can’t see these matching the colors in some of the reference books I got (Junkers JU88 in action and another one by Kagero Publishing).

Can I trust these colors from Model Master?

Should I be using the enamels or the acrylic style of paint from Model Master?

On the Eduard photo-etch details what type of glue do I need to use to attach the brass to the plastic? I have some of the ones they for the Revell 1/48 PV-1 Ventura.

Thanks for the help and the advice!

2

I’m relatively new, too, but maybe I can help some - use CA (superglue) to marry the PE to the plastic. There are fast setting CA’s (like the you buy in the blister pack at Walmart, or wherever); medium set and slow set CA’s. Start with the medium set, as it is easier to work with than the other two, IMHO. CA is good for bonding two painted plastic surfaces together, too.

As for the paint questions, I’ll have to leave that to others more experienced, though I’ll say I use Model Master acrylics, as well as Tamiya and some Vallejo acryllics. I use some Testor’s enamels, to, for detail work, but, so far, have only used airbrushed acryllic for base colors.

I will also say that color is a big issue - shades vary from maker to maker, and a historically accurate color seems hard to pin down among them. I just do my best to match, then let my aesthetic sensibility take over …

3

The acrylic has a slighty different shade, but the enamel is spot on to FS Color

4

Never go by the color of an un-opened bottle. They need to be shaken and stirred thoroughly to judge the color. With my limited experience with MM Acrylic, their RLM colors seem to look close enough.

5

The 70/71 scheme was a very early paint scheme. When you view b/w period photos they have to be of very decent quality to see the two colours, as they are very similar in darkness.

Check this site: http://users.hol.gr/~nowi/luftcam/index.html

regards,

Jack

6

Nathan is spot on about trying to go by color still in the unopened bottle,but, there is one more thing involved

There was an FSM article a few years ago,I think it was Paul Boyer, but, am not sure,he painted a chip and took a photo right after it was painted,then took another photo a day or two later, after the paint had full cured, and all the pigments had “migrated” for want of a better word

it can be a lot like the old “rubbing out the color” days with 1/1 scale auto lacquers,it takes some time for the paint to dry, and that is your true color that you will see on the model from that bottle

if you chip paints (I do a lot of that, old habit),you don’t want to do that onto a standard index card, either,if you don’t want to use a plastic sheet cut into squares, at least use an Avery white label type of material, and stick that onto your card,index cards used straight will absorb some of the paint, possible changing the color you see, making it not match the model when you paint it on there

Rex

7

As has been said, rlm70/71 are pretty close…viewed through an un-openned bottle, but are clearly different when sprayed (these are MM enamels, 1/72 JU-88)

8

In case you need another example of MM here is one using thier acrylics:

9

Model master are very close, but I was able to spend time with original period paint chips and spent time matching them.

The Revell 1/32 JU88 kit is really good for the money. It can be transformed using the Eduard BigEd set into a show stopping model.

The era that this particular model depicts is the Battle of Britain. The Luftwaffe had set paint colours for aircraft during this period.

Most aircraft including the JU88 had RLM 02 all over as a primer both inside and outside. The cockpit area of this model should be RLM 02 with RLM 66 control panels.

to have a 100% shade match for RLM 02 you should use Vallejo Model Colour 70886. Use this also in the wheel wells etc.

If you don’t have, or intend on using the Eduard Big Ed set then RLM 66 should be the colour of the control panels. The 100% shade match for this is Vallejo Model colour 70866.

The exterior of this aircraft during the battle of britain should be RLM 65/70/71

There should be a low demarkation line between the upper splinter camo and the lower surface. the Revell paint stage showing the pattern and demarkiation line is accurate for this aircraft.

The 100% shade match for the exterior colours are:

Undersurface: RLM 65 - Vallejo Model Colour 70906

Upper surface splinter camo

RLM 70 - Vallejo model colour 70897 (also the prop blades)

RLM 71 - Vallejo Model colour 70894

Take a look at my partially complete builds of Revells HE111 here

http://s353.photobucket.com/albums/r392/jamesgoddard_photos/Revell%20He-111/

and their JU88 here

http://s353.photobucket.com/albums/r392/jamesgoddard_photos/Revell%20JU-88/

I hope that this helps you

10

Nice reference Snapdragon…did you ever finish up that cross reference chart you were working on?

11

I only use MM enamels and go by the RLM suggestions, thus far they “look” right but then again, there probably aren’t many folks left from the Luftwaffe or who are experts to say “Nah, that 70 is too green or not dark enough”.

12

Don’t want to butt in here but test paints/shades on the back of plastic spoons. Ya’ can get a box of them for a $1.00. Use your new primer,base colors,etc.

13

Nice tip