I, already, put this up on another modeling site. But, I figured, the more people who see it, the better chance I have of getting good input.
Just a few ideas and observations on building the Revell 1:72 U-Boat kit.
.75mm strips along the inside, of the hull, will bring the PE decks up to correct height. Just glue them in the notch for the deck, then attach the metal deck.
The wooden Nautilus deck has an advantage, in that, you can cut out the hatches and replace them with the WEM hatches. If you want to show the Yankee Modelworks hull, just leave the hatches open.
The brass access hatch hinges can be simulated with .5mm brass rod, cut to length and soldered to the hatch edge, at the appropriate places.
If the torpedo doors are open, remember, the rectangle pieces with the kit are NOT the doors, but are fairings. They slide forward, the width of the doors + door hinges, when the doors open. Thin the plastic, of the slides, and cut slots on the inside of hull, at the forward end of the openings to recieve them. An easier, but, IMHO, shakier, method would be to carefully measure the distance needed, and cut the slides shorter.
This is just a few ideas. I’d sure like to hear other peoples ideas, and thoughts, on construction and detailing.
Mike
Hi Mike…thanks fo rthe measurement for the shims. I was wondering what it would take to get the PE to the correct height.
Another hint that’s been published before…the supplied UZO is too short, and on the supplied plastic deck, in the wrong place in the conning tower configuration. (It’s correct on the PE, not sure about the Nautilus…)
It should be in the center of tower, in line with the two scopes. It should be high enough so that the large binoculars mounted on the top of the device are above the forward edge of the tower.
There’s conflicting information about the color of the props. I’ve seen references to the props being a dull gray in color (from being cast), but most modelers paint them a brass color.
Hi Sam, I plan to use the PE conning tower deck, so UZU location is not a question. As for the height of it, a piece of plastic tubing, of the correct diameter, should take care of that.
For the screws, I’m planning straight brass. But, as I remember, froming diving on ships props, you could just “dirty” them up with a little black and light green washes. But go easy. Their movement, thrue the water, would tent to scour most of the staining off of them.
Hey…thats funny Mike…I lived in Chandler for about 6 months in 87…couldn’t take the heat…and whats up with those big Frogs? I sware there where nights I couldn’t sleep and forget the nights they were doing something at the race track! oh and the crickets! AHHHHHH!!!
I was out here in 85 and remember what you’re talking about. You wouldn’t recognize the place, now. It’s built-up out passed Gilbert, the frogs are long gone, and the crickets are few and far between. Most night all you hear is cars, out on the main drag, and planes going overhead. As far as the heat goes, under 70 = cold, 120+ = getting uncomfortable. Anywhere in between is nice. But my home of origin is Ft Lauderdale, Fla, so what do you expect?
I’d be happy to post PICs, but I still haven’t figure out how.
I finished a Revell Growler, modified to show a Tench Class Guppy II, with interior, several months ago. I took lots of pictures, during construction, but don’t heve a web site to show them on. So…(shrugs).
Mike
Thats the effect you get when you don’t know what the heck your doing with a digi camera! [:p]
It’s the U-94. Since that pic was taken I have installed the ‘der SAD BIRD’ in the directional antena also the rigging does not show up well in those two pics. There are more pics of her on the front page of my model site.
To post photos, you need to upload the image to a server somewhere, photobucket, etc…some internet providers offer web space for personal web pages, so that could work as well…once that’s done…make sure you copy the location of the image file…complete with the http:// part…
In your text here on the board, type in [ i m g] before the image url, and [ /i m g ] at the end of the image url, and your photo should appear. If not, you can always edit your message until you get it to work properly.
Make sure you take out the spaces in between the brackets and letters, I had to post it that way so that its not interpreted as an image command.
WARNING!!!
Several days ago I put some info here, that I’ve found to be bad.
I have always believed that the torpedo tube outer doors and shutters operated in the same way as their US counter parts. I WAS WRONG !!!
The US doors and shutters open in one motion. the outboard edge of the muzzle door is attached to the aft end of the shutter, by a hinge. When the door opens it pushes the shutter foreward and inboard, clearing the torpedo’s path. It’s quick, simple and as close to “Sailor Proof”, as anything can get.
However, the Germans did it differently.
First the door was cranked open, until it was parallel to the centerline and well inboard of the torpedo tube. Then the shutter was cranked open. It was hinged to the hull, at the foreward end. The aft end swung inboard, until the shutter was parallel to the centerline, against the door and out of the torpedo’s path.
When the torpedo tube was fully open, and ready to fire, the muzzle door was hidden behind the shutter, except for the door hinges and a small portion of its inboard edge.
I hope no one acted on my earlier info. I did, and I’m now filling, rebuilding and reshaping the modified parts.
Mike
