Resurrected WIP.... M60A1 w/M9 Dozer....Call'n it DONE

[1SG_Davis]

Just scored an Italeri M60A1 in my LHS 50% off section[:)]. I’d like to build this up as an early M60A1 with a solid OD paint scheme. I’ve got a few questions that I need some help with.

#1 the O/D paint from Tamiya (XF-62) and Model Master (34087) both seem to be a little too “green” when compared to some color pictures of early O/D M-60A1’s I’ve found, the picture’s seem to show a darker more brownish O/D. Is there a different color that matches better?

#2 Could the later T142 octagonal be found on a O/D M60A1 or would I need to use the earlier “chevron” style track?

#3 Would Academy’s M9 Dozer Blade set be appropriate to add to an early O/D M60A1?

#4 Does anyone know of some good pictures? I’ve found just a few (Toadmans & Prime Portal pictures seem to be mostly MERDC & Europe 1)

Hope to be able to post some WIP pictures soon.

Thanks,

Gary / 1SG

[redleg12]

Top - For that VN and post VN all green I use XF 13 JA Green, it is closed to what was used then. You can also lighten up the XF62 OD wit about 15 - 20% XF 60 Dark Yellow though that will be closer to early OD.

Rounds Complete!!

[ASA]

In the 1971 to 1973 timeframe I worked at a Army NG Consite with numerous M60 and M48 tanks. These tanks were painted in OD (sorry, dont know the shade) with white stars and USA numbers. Sometime during that period we started to replace directional tracks (chevron) with the new non-directional (block). I beleive either tracks will work for the paint scheme you desire.

Billy/1SG

[Spamicus]

Model Master acryl line has two viable start points for the dark OD. One is called US Army Helo Drab and the other is called Green Drab. You may need to mix some black in to get exactly what you’re looking for. The solid rubber chevron track would be more appropriate for an early M60A1, but both would be acceptable if the vehicle being modelled is an old girl still hanging around. AFV club makes decent sets of both tracks as AM parts. I think the M9 blade is okay on an early, but if my memory serves me the old ones had an armored oil tank on the port side replacing the rear sponson box. There were also hydraullic lines (big armored ones) running from the rear of the tank along the bottom of the hull. I haven’t been able to find any photos of these features online and didn’t take any when I was in the service. Then again my memory may be fooling me, it was a long time ago[:P]. M60A1’s have been heavily photographed over the years and there are many on the web. Try a google or ask search, something will most likely turn up.

[stikpusher]

I ike using MM Green Drab w/some Black added for the 60s/70s dark OD. The old Pactra Dark Olive Drab was a great match for that color.

[1SG_Davis]

Mike, Steve, Billy/1SG, Stikpusher,

Great information guys, especially with my paint question. I made a trip back to my LHS this afternoon to get some of the above mentioned paint and a set of the AFV chevron tracks (I figured I’d go old school) I plan on doing a few test mixes with all the suggestions to see what looks best.

BTW, I do remember 25 years ago or so using that Pactra Dark Olive Drab. I’m sure if I dusted off some old boxes in the back of my closet I find a dried up bottle or two. Too bad Pactra paints seem to have disappeared.

Thanks again for the advice, I’ll be sure & post my progress.

Gary/1SG

[Pawel]

Hello,

for OD I matched a paint using an old ammo can, and what I use since then is Humbrol 66 with a coat of future on top of that. The result looks like that:

By the way, it’s unbelievable how different the color looks before the future coat, it’s very close to gray.

I also heard stories about the soldiers washing their vehicles with diesel fuel (this is actually forbidden by the TM’s). After that the color gets rich and shiny, but fades quite fast after several repetitions. That could be an excuse for a not-very-exact matchwhen it happens [8D]

Have a nice day

Pawel

[binder001]

a few comments;

1. for late 50’s early 60’s OD, the color “from the can” was close to the model railroad color “Pullman Green” - a very dark, rich color. Back then, my dad was in the military and brought home a surplus can of OD enamel that he used to paint some tools and other odds and ends in the garage. A very dark color. That paint did weather to a bit of a brownish tone.

2. the finish was officially a semi-gloss. As mentioned some troopers, prior to inspections or parades, might rub the vehicle down with diesel fuel to get a sheen.

3. The T142 track with the removable octagonal pads didn’t come in until the mid-70’s.

4. There used to be a great M60 spotter’s guide at the AFV News site but it doesn’t seem to be there now. Maybe somebody has a copy they can get to you. Just remember - original aluminum side-loading air cleaners, no grenade launchers. If a searchlight was fitted it was the older AN/VSS-2.

5. I’m not sure when the dozers started being applied to A1’s, but the M9 dozer was a direct descendant of the M8 kit used on the M48s so I think the dozer came pretty early. In the mid 70’s (at least) there was a dozer tank in each company, usually the XO’s tank (carrying a “65” after the company letter on the bumper codes - the company CO was “66”).

6. For more photos see the Squadron M60 in action.

Gary

[Rob_Gronovius]

We had the old M9 blades on the M60A3TTS. It used a hydraulic reservoir mounted in place of the left rear sponson box and had two pipes that entered thru the left rear engine access plate. One pipe snaked underneath the suspension to the blade mount. I doubt I ever saw a blade fully operational. Most blade kits available do not contain the characteristic plumbing, but it could probably be scratched with some decent photos and styrene tubing.

I may have some reference photos, but will have to search for them.

[Rob_Gronovius]

All right, here are some of my old TM scans for the blade’s hydralics.

[binder001]

Rob,

those are nice drawings.

For photos, see; http://picasaweb.google.com/gebinder01/M60S#

Page down to the M60 at the Heartland Museum of Military Vehicles. They have an M60 with an M9 dozer kit in their collection.

Gary

[1SG_Davis]

Once again, fantastic information from all.

Pawel: very nice M151, great detail for such a small 1/35 scale kit. The color you have there is very close to what I’m looking for.

Washing the vehicles w/diesel[:O] Now it all starts to make sense why former Army installations chronically turn into EPA superfund sites.[:-^]

Gary: Great info on the particular vehicle I’m looking to build. I just got a set of the older cheveron tracks (AFV Club) The Italeri M60A1 comes with the older side load air cleaners. I’m going to use the search light from Legend prod. M48A3 acc. kit that I had stashed away.

The link you posted to your site has one of the best collections of M60 detail shots I’ve seen yet. THANKS!! May hit up the LHS for the M60 in action book next week

Rob: Once again great information. The drawings are exactly what I need to get the plumbing right. Between you and Gary I now have no excuse to not get the M9 dozer blade on with all the correct detail.

Time to start cutting off a left rear sponson box

Thanks again, all

Gary/1SG

[1SG_Davis]

Its not much, but I’ve got it started. Between the kids spring sports finals/playoffs and a new Army assignment I haven’t had much time at the bench.

The first thing I did was cut off the L/R sponson box with an xacto knife and smoothed the surface w/extra fine steel wool.

Next, to make the hydraulic reservoir I cannibalized two air cleaners off an old Tamiya M60A1 that serves as my test rig for paint. I cut both air cleaners in two and joined the pieces I wanted, sanded and filled and then added the fill and vent plugs from a verlinden nut & bolt resin acc. The bolts around the top cover were made with cut round stock. Two straps on the bottom w/four bolt heads finished it off.

The first picture here shows the L/R sponson cleared off the upper hull, the built hydraulic reservoir along with the remains of the two air cleaners, the resin search light, and some copper wire that I’m going to use for the hoses.

The next picture here is a close up of the reservoir

The last shot is the reservoir sitting on the upper hull

Like I said, not much, but its started.

I also have a question about the hydraulic lines as run under the tank. They must have been protected somehow. Does anyone know what was done? Did the run the lines through a steel tube welded to the bottom of the hull?

Thanks for looking in, comments & advice always welome

Gary / 1SG

[redleg12]

Top - The first step is always the hardest. This time of year always bring numerous other things to do.

Rounds Complete!!

[binder001]

I also have a question about the hydraulic lines as run under the tank. They must have been protected somehow. Does anyone know what was done? Did they run the lines through a steel tube welded to the bottom of the hull?

Gary / 1SG

Gary,

I don’t recall seeing any other support tubes for them when I shot photos of that M60. The lines ARE steel tubes. I just don’t recall if they were welded or on brackets (which would seem more likely for repairs).

Gary

[Rob_Gronovius]

The tubes were steel and they mounted to brackets that fit onto where existing suspension bolts were. A few bolts along the underside of the suspension were removed, replaced by slightly longer bolts and that held the brackets in place.

[agentg]

Top,

Just a thought before you begin plumbing the system. You might want to try solder for the lines. It’s available in all sizes and a lot more malleable. I think you’d have an easier time of routing the hoses with that.

Just my [2c]

[disastermaster]

While 'ya working on it, listen to Elvis and have some fun here and here.

What a big kid…

!http://www.innovationbyinstinct.com/services/hosting/clients/accountyp/status/DisasterMaster/%23t1-4.jpg

[1SG_Davis]

Gary & Rob, thanks for the info on the plumbing on the underside of the hull for the dozer blade. That was the last piece of the puzzle I needed to complete that part of the build.

Agentg, I had originally considered using solder but could only find very thin solder for electronic work and very thick solder for plumbing, nothing in between. In hindsight however your right, I should have looked harder. The sold copper wire was a little bit of a bear to shape when things got tight. On the plus side though my tank will be environmentally friendly

Disastermaster, nice video links. You can never go wrong with Elvis. May consider a build like that after I retire. By then my rotator cuff will be completely shot and I’ll need the tennis ball cannon to play fetch with the dog. To sell the idea to my wife I’ll put a mower deck on the bottom.

And now the plumbing

I started off raiding the spare parts box looking for things to use for the fittings. I stumbled upon road wheel hubs from an Italeri M109 that I had never complete 20+ years ago. I drilled out the center and shaved off the hat part of the hub.

To make the 90deg elbows coming out the engine comp. plate I used exhaust manifolds from Tamiya M113 engine

Now came the copper for the lines. This shot shows my first mistake with the plumbing, notice the final drive hub is not in mounted and the rubber sprocket splash shield is not on either. This would come back to haunt me later.

The hose shield on the fender behind the reservoir was the most challenging thing to make so far. I started off trying to use the exhaust snorkel and putty to make the shape I wanted. That didn’t work out too well & I ended up carving the part out of a solid piece resin. For now it looks okay but it still needs some work

It was about now, as I was almost done with the plumbing that I realized my mistake with the final drive hub & splash shield. I ended up having to rework two of the three copper lines. (this is where it would have been way easier with solder vs. copper) In the end it came out okay

For the last part of the plumbing I mounted the blade frame and valve box from the Academy kit and connected the lines to the valve box. I then put the retaining straps onto the pipes over where suspension bolts would be

That’s all how she sits now. Thank you all for the help with details, pictures and links!!!

Thanks for stopping in and looking, comments and insight are always welcome

Gary / 1SG

[m60a3]

Happily subscribing to the thread! Looks cool, First Shirt!

60