I have a Tamiya 1/32 F-4 Phantom which has a part of the canopy loose in the bag after being torn from the sprue sometime during shipping. On this particular kit, the canopy and it’s associated frames are separate so any damage to the edges on the clear part will show when glued to the frame.
Is there any material that can be used to repair this? Would CA glue work as a repair, assuming the part was first dipped in Future to protect it from the fumes? I am curious whether anyone has tried this technique before and how well it worked.
How bad is the damage? If it’s just a little hole or chunk in the edge where the sprue was attached, I’d try some Testors Clear Parts cement. It dries clear. Build it up in layers, letting it dry good between.
If the damage was on a surface that goes against the fuselage or window frame, I might glue it to the model and try to fudge the edge a little by covering it with paint and putty (making the frame just slightly wider than they should be), if I could get away without it being noticeable. You would have to putty the seam all the way around of course and Tamiya masking tape is your friend here.
Maybe a combination of all the above.
I’ve seen watch crystal cement recommended as well, but have not tried it myself.
I am going to contact Tamiya to see if they can help, hopefully they can! I took a look at the other 2 1/32 F-4’s and each has similar issues. It is just a small area around the sprue attachment point, about 1.5mm in total diameter.
Thanks guys for the quick replies, I’ll post here how it goes with possible replacements and repairs.
Squadron has replacement vacuum formed canopies. They are reasonable in price and if you look at the multi-sets even if you need 2 out of 10 they are a good deal for 7$
*The WWII German set in 1/48 scale has the Ho 229, 109’s, 190’s and a few bombers for 7$!
Contacting the manufacture might be a lesson in patience, I would source your own instead.
Frank,
I’ve repaired the edges of canopys before with CA. As long as the repair is going to be painted over that is, like on a frame member edge. Like you mentioned, I CA the part then once cured I apply gel CA on the damage. Once cured I sand it with sanding sticks and finish with a tri grit stick. Often times I’ll have to repeat because of an air bubble or something in the CA but the end result always looks good.
I’ve never tried it on an area where the repair can be seen, only edges, so I can’t comment on what it may look like in a visible pane.