I made the mistake of using Methuselah brand frisket on my 1/72 P40 and the glue separated in a few places leaving some sticky bits. I used Testors enamel paint and haven’t applied Future yet and even though this is a warm-up model after a 7 year break I’d still like for it to look nice. Soooo…
Is there anything that will remove the adhesive and not damage the paint or leave a Future-unfriendly residue?
Thanks!
Try a mild paint thinner like Mona Lisa brand. How long has your base enamel paint had to dry? In the future use Tamiya masking tape or Parafilm M. I have been using the Tamiya tape for 12+ years now and swear by the stuff. It never leaves any adhesive residue.
I used frisket once and it was a disaster. Too tacky. It’s for art projects, not models.
Let the paint get fully dry, for a day or two.
Take a piece of your unused frisket try several types of thinners, airbrush cleaners, windex, whatever; and see if any remove the glue from the paper. That should give you a guide as to what to use.
Here are a couple of unconventional methods should the above fail to achieve the or any, desired results
1-Get or make a rubber cement “pick up” and dab at the glue spots to see if you can pick them off the model. You can get the pick up at an art supply store or get the rubber cement there to make your own.
2-Take a soft paper towel or soft toilet tissue put a small spot of WD40 on it (not a great slobbery amount) just a small bit and very gently /lightly dab at the glue spots . POSSIBLE PROBLEM: the WD40 may leave a silicone like residue that will have to be thoroughly cleaned off before additional paint or weathering can be applied to these areas of the model
Much luck on saving your model.
I once removed tape residue using lighter fluid. I think I used Vallejo acrylics as a base coat.
Frisket is not good for modeling. My favorites are Tamiya tapes and Parafilm M. Both of them do a great masking job and leave no residue.
I second the lighter fluid suggestion. I’ve also used rubbing alcohol over enamels and goo gone or windex on clear parts, but not sure how those will do over paint. If you have a spare “test” model try rubbing it with each of the above on a paper towel.
Before using any kind of fluid, I would recommend gently trying to rub the adhesive up with a finger to see if you can get it off that way. If you do, you’ll need to gently rub with some alcohol or something to get the oils from your fingers off or you will get some light brown spots when you apply future.
Groot
I painted a few pieces on the sprue so there was some overspray to play with. The windex didn’t hurt the paint at all but it wouldn’t touch the adhesive. The lighter fluid took the paint off the sprue like stripper & so did the thinner I had. I don’t have any mild thinner like the one Stikpusher mentioned… It may have worked better based on how the other stuff reacted. I’ll get some up on the next order.
I wound up just using the windex and elbow grease and just pushed the stuff off with a rag. I had to repaint a few spots. Every failure is a lesson I guess. Lesson learned.
I’ll pick up some new tape before I start on the next kit.
Thanks for the help!
We learn more from our errors than from our successes 