I’m starting to use my new airbrush that I was a gift to me after receiving it over 7 and a half months ago. I only have one set of actual airbrush paints (Testors Auto Body Spraying colors) and about double the number of can spray paint and probably double that in regular enamel and acrylic paints. I’ve never used the spray/airbrush paints or the airbrush before but I’ve been somewhat “practicing” by going thru the motions without the paint or propellant, basically a dry run…
Now for my question… Can I use the regular enamels or acrylics with my airbrush? It’s a Badger Model 175-7. It’s internal mix and dual action. I don’t think I’ll be using the enamels, though, because I only have water based airbrush cleaner.
You can use either one. I can’t comment about acrylics; I spray the enamels myself, but someone else should be able to give some pointers. Once you do start loading paint in it, practice on some scrap or cardboard to get a good feel for it before shooting your project, it can take some getting used to.
Yes, you can spray non-airbrush paints. They key is to thin them to the “right” consistency with thinner. Since you are a beginner, I recommend using whatever thinner the paint manufacturer recommends using. So if you have Testors Model Master Acryl paints, use Testors brand universal acrylic thinner. Or use Testors airbrush thinner if you use Testors enamels. This way, you eliminate a variable as you learn to use your airbrush.
The usual advice is to add thinner until the paint has the consistency of 2% milk. The “airbrush” paints are usually pre-thinned to a usable consistency, so no thinning is required. However, some modelers may add more thinner as they prefer a thinner consistency.
A couple of comments. I use enamels almost exclusively. I used to use Testors airbrush thinner, but I am finding it hard to find at LHSs. So I am now using regular hardware store thinners for the airbrushing as well as the cleanup. There is some junk thinner sold at hardware stores that you have to avoid. I only buy stuff that says specifically “turpentine” or “mineral spirits”. If you buy thinner by the gallon it is not that expensive.
If I gave folks a test, to identify as I pour, three containers of milk- full, 2% and 1%, I believe most of us would be unable to do so with any accuracy. I believe you have to do it by ratio, and a unique ratio for every brand and type of paint. For Testors enamel I start with 1:1, or 50% thinner. You do not need to be super accurate for thinning ratio- there is some tolerance. And, you can adjust for different thinning ratios with air pressure changes and distance from surface. Skinner’s articles in the latest FSM discuss changes in thinning, air pressure, and distance. Worth reading.
Ok. Thanks guys. I’m gonna practic spray right now… But since I’m short for time, I can’t do much. Also, what is the primer for in my current spray paint set?
I agree completely with Don’s comment about the milk…The “thin to the consistency of 2% milk” rule always cracks me up. Honestly, is there anyone out there with that discerning of an eye?
it doesn’t matter which milk we thin to,it does matter what the paint does when it is too thick, too thin, or just right
the video shows a perfect way to get it right,without formulas,if it does what is shown in the video, it is right, even if it is different than yesterday, or a different ratio than at my house
I highly recommend you read the article on how to thin paints for airbrushing, in the current (July) issue of FSM, by Aaron Skinner. He speaks the truth!
I just read Aaron’s (Skinner) article yesterday. I really like his tip about watching the drip (in my case, down the side of my gravity feed paint cup. Played with it yesterday, might end up with some consistency with my thinning one day after all.