i’ve been working on how to make the steel plate aft of the engines on a f-4 phantom and i got it .first you have to put foil on the correct areas witch is painful slow and time consuming .but when that is finally done take some of the tree and flame it (make sure the kids are outta where you do this at because it makes a mess)then let the smoke flow over the areas that you want.then to finish spray a thin coat of flat clear coat over the area(making sure your as far back from the project as possible because the pressure could move the smoke film)let dry then your done have fun[:D]
Sounds interesting…how about a photo.
Jerry
I’ll second the photo idea
guys it works trust me but as soon as i get the means to put a photo on i will
I think Alclad do a “burnt metal” color… and it’s less likely to set the tail of your kit on fire! [:D]
I saw a “how to” of burnt metal, and it was basically just a case of building up differing shades of metal onto the part, to closely mimic the variance of shading after the metal’s been heated to insane temperatures many times in flight. It seemed quite sensible & easy, if a little time-consuming. Also, Alclad being lacquer paint, it’ll dry to a very robust finish, and will even stand masking, so I’m told. I’ve got almost the full set of Alclad on my paint stand, and am just working up the courage to use 'em!
When you say that you take some of the tree, do you mean sprue?
Thanks for the tip /Johan
interesting, I’m not sure what you are using for flat coat, but make sure its not flammable, otherwise it sounds pretty dangerous to me.
Interesting idea. I think I might try that when I get brave.
it shouldn’t be flammable once its dry. The flammable parts are the fumes from the wet paint. However, plastic will still melt and catch on fire, but i don’t think your going to get the flash fire from it like you would if you tried it with wet paint.
If you are on using aluminium foil, there is a much simpler and safer method : put pieces of foil with eggs and make them boil; you’ll see there are lots of variations of tints on the foil.
One little thing though, but not important : eggs serve only once, it is useless to keep the shell to redo the process as it won’t work. Try it, you’ll find it very rich of possibilities.
Hi Torio!!
Very interesting your method, thank you!!!
A simpler method would prob be to try the Model Master Line of paints… In Buffing metalizers they have… exhaust, Jet exhaust, Burnt Iron and burnt Metal, there are also several other types of metal finishes in the line of Buffing metalizers…(they are called buffing because after you spray them on and they dry you use a cotton rag to buff them to a shine…If the area has raised details they get shiny while the recessed ones stay darker… )
I’m tempted to try the egg thing just to see what it would do!!! Maybe tomorrow!!!
Not mine, chap, it comes from a very old article on Scale Aircraft Modelling from UK. I tried it and it works wonderfully: the more you leave the foil in the water, the more “burnt’” it looks, and the guy who reported this , a German named Alfred E. Harke, said that he left the foil till 20 minutes at times; you can use the shell alone ( without the egg) and results vary depending of the freshness of the egg, but the shell serves only once. A very smart illustration of “finding solutions by accident”
i feel compelled to correct myself what some people think is that you use the clear coat and fire at same time don’t use the fire first at least 6 inches away from the model this is far enough not to melt or even warm up the plastic.then let stand for about 5 mins then clear coat happy modeling[:D]
one quick word on those, there are about 3 or 4 colors that are virtually the same, gun metal, titanium, jet exhaust, and one other one I can’t put my finger on at the moment. make sure you seal those because it makes them look more like metal and protects them.
The observation that boiling eggs darkens aluminum was probably made back when aluminum pots first came on the market. Housewives who boiled eggs in Club Aluminum (anybody else out there remember “Club Aluminum” from the 1950s?) were horrified to see their precious new pots turn dark. (BTW, the way one reverses this chemical change, not that we would want to, is to boil vinegar in them.)
It makes one think of Edison (“I have not failed. I just found 10,000 ways that don’t work.”). He once noted that carbon from the filament was deposited on the inside walls of his lightbulbs – that “failure” lead to the invention of the vacuum tube!
Here is the best way to make burnt exhausts and metal:
http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/Su27/photo_frame.htm
Just follow the topic and you will be impressed of a result for sure!
Andy
In regards to the Flanker instructions:
I actually have some questions about his base coat instructions. He sprays the panel lines with a dark colour, and then he starts the cam. But he is not clear how it works. Do you just spray the whole area, or do you avoid the panel lines? His panel line paint is really dark but then it seems to really lighten. How does he do that?
Thanks for your help.
He sprays the panels avoiding the lines. He folows the “perimeter” of each panel but some paint oversparays a bit on the closer panel so it makes such effect… BTW the guy messed up with the flanker colors. Even right from the production line Flanker’s colors are more light! After a few years of expluatation they become very “pale”.
But anyway the buid is great! I hope someday I’ll achive that level ))))
Andy