There is no model train section so the closes I thought would be the armor forum. Does anyone know of a company that manufactures railroad track that is like the switches.
Like this where one track goes straight and the other turns.
In my small town we have an lhs that does NOTHING but trains, these people are serious about hobby, browse the web you should find this in no time, it just look like a basic switch. they have unbelievable resources, If only they would realise that in the end they will be discover our dark world of destruction and once again the argument about weathering will begin yet again! From what I hear forces are be amassed as we speak and I may form a “kessell” as I have yet to choose sides, the stash I have is sparce but it is formidable. lol
Have fun Tankluver! thats what its all about…Doug in Indiana
The problem is that military modelling and model railway scales don’t match. Mostly, model railway people work in ‘O’ gauge (1/43) ‘OO’ gauge (1/76) ‘HO’ gauge (1/87) and ‘N’ gauge (1/148). In America, however, ‘O’ gauge is 1/48, which is useful if that’s your scale, and it is posible to get re-bogieing kits to get 1/72 military railway models (such as the Hasegawa ‘Leopold’ gun to run on ‘OO/ HO’ tracks.
So long as you’re prepared to compromise the difference in rail-cross-section size, it shouldn’t be too difficult to mount European ‘O’ gauge rails on custom-built sleepers (ties) to make 1/35 railway track, especially if you don’t intend to run a working moel railway on it. Someome at your local model railway club could probably custom-make a few lengths of tracks, or even sets of points/ switches for you. Verlinden do simple straight lengths of track.
Cheers,
Chris.
I have the LGB kind of switch but thats to big. Not unless I can get some railties and the metal part of the track that trains run on. Then I can modify it some way.
Railroad “I” guage is 1/32. Maybe find individual rails and make your own 1/35 width tracks?
The closest to 1/35 military scale would be Gauge 1, which the U.S. & UK markets both use a ratio of 1/32. For the purposes of marketing easiness, both also use 45mm gauge track. This gauge is reasonably popular in continental Europe, & has a small following in the UK for garden layouts, so they should be your starting points. However, the UK stuff will usually be a bit more realistic whereas the parts from Europe tend more to be more toy-like
Let’s try to solve this problem. First of all, what is the scale? Second, the geographic location, and third the year/ era.
I assume the switch won’t need to operate. If thats the case you’re in luck and can put all model railroad/ railway items behind you because they include SIGNIFICANT compromises in every way, most notably a neck cracking turning radius, in order to be dependably functional and yet not take up a meter of layout length.
So with the answers to the ???, I’ll help you find a pattern. Then it’s easily built out of strip styrene and ground materials. You could spend $ 40 or so for this item and still have a toy train scaled element.
The scale is 1/35 the geographic area is going to be in and around the Ruhr valley during the end of World War II right before the allies attacked the ruhr.
The Reichsbahn inherited and continued a system built on international standards. The gauge- inside dimension of the rails, is 4’-8 1/2" or 1.615" at 1/35. Now, if you have rolling stock by all means match that.
You should match the tie spacing and size shown. At 1/35 the spacing looks to be 1/2" center to center and the depth should be the same as the width, which is 1/4" square.
http://www.prototrains.com/turnout/turnout.html
This pattern shows a mainline turnout, at N scale which is 1/160. So you could blow it up x 4 and be accurate at 1/35, nothing is ever absolute in railroads. But notice it’ll be about four feet long. And you’ll need to return the divergent track to be parallel to the main, at a center-to-center distance of 14 feet. It would be reasonable to reduce that overall length by sharpening the angle of the turnout a lot, but it all depends on what’s getting poked up the siding. For that reason model railroaders accept a foreshortened scale of actual locations of up to 10 to 1.
If you look back up the link they can get shorter as the angle increases. Your photo is of a humble little siding with an acute angle that has a couple of short little beer cans up the line, but that’s not a place anyone would ever run a railroad gun through. But a standard train of 30-40 foot cars;ok.
Print out the turnout you like. Use 1/4" x 1/8" wood at the lengths you need for ties.
Heavy rail, which I’m guessing you’ll want, is about 6" tall by 2" at the head and I wouldn’t worry about the profile unless you want to buy 1/32 rail stock: lgb.com. Or use styrene 0.015 high by 0.005 wide.
Good luck with this: sidings on railroads are tough to model. A brakeman might easily walk a mile with a 20 lb hammer checking a train’s brake shoes in a siding. The Ruhr had first class rails in your time frame, I’d think a locomotive, an idler car or two and an armored element over a switch would be a good 12’ to 16’ model. Which I would love to see.