I cant find the answers i’m looking for in the forum search. I was wondering about BMF for masking canopies. Up until now i’ve been using parafilm exclusively but it seems from some of your comments that foil is the way to go. Anyhow, i’ve never used foil and was wondering if it is self adhesive or does it need an agent and if so whats the safest to use on clear parts?
Bare Metal Foil is actually a brand name. It is self adhesive & sticks quite well. You cut a panel slightly larger than the area to be masked, remove the protective backing, place the foil & then burnish it into place. It conforms to compound curves very well. Then using a new,sharp #11 X-acto blade you trim it to the canopy using the molded in frames as a guide. Remove the excess, give the edges another light burnishing & you’re ready to paint. You may get some glue residue when you remove the foil, but it’s easily removed.
Regards, Rick
You can get it either way. I personally use Bare Metal Foil, which has an adhesive backing. Regular old kitchen aluminum foil can be used as well, but you have to provide your own adhesive.
When I use Bare Metal Foil, I cut out a piece that covers the entire canopy, then apply it to the canopy, making sure to burnish the edges extremely well. I also do the same to the windscreen, unless it’s a one-piece canopy & windscreen. After that, I use a new Xacto blade to cut the framework out of the foil, and then carefully peel it off using a toothpick. Make sure that you burnish down the edges of the foil one last time before you apply paint. After you’re done, you should have a canopy all foiled over, with just the frame work exposed for painting. After you paint and apply your final clear coat (flat or gloss), peel off the remaining foil with a toothpick, and then use some adhesive residue remover to get the residue off the clear parts. I use Goo Gone, but alcohol can be used as well.
Hope this helps. Good Luck!!!
Thanks, this method will come in handy for me as well. I kinda wondered if thee was an easy way to do it. Doesn’t sound too bad.
Typically I try to cut BMF w/ a straightedge and then align that cut edge to a long straight edge on the canopy . I try to minimize cutting on the canopy as much as possible. For curves and other irregular shapes I’ll use a compass w/ a blade to cut something that will match as close as possible to the shape I’m trying to mask. Trying to cut a curved shape in the BMF on the canopy is not impossible but , I feel you will get better results by trying to match something to the curve or irregular shape. Plus you don’t run the risk of slipping or scratching the canopy. It does take longer , but I’m not in a race. It all depends on what you’re after.
I’ve used this method for a while now and have become quite good. I only use the chrome or aluminum colors since the others don’t seem to do as well (at least for me). As for cutting around canopies, I’ve used a curved blade. Instead of running it along the edge, I “roll” it allong the edge first. It seems to cover the curves well. I’ll then go back and pull off the portion I want off with the blade edge. Just my technique. Good luck.
I used to use BMF in pretty much the same manner as described above. The last couple of models I built, I used liquid masking film from Micro Mark. It paints on in a fairly thick, white, opaque goo. Let it dry a day or two until it is completely clear, trim to final shape with a SHARP x-acto blade. Paint as normal. When the paint is dry pick up an edge or corner of the flexible film and remove. This stuff leaves a lot less residue than BMF and can be left on the canopy for many days without any adverse effects. It is water soluable, so your paint brush can be cleaned by just swirling it around in some water. [alien]
The only problem with Micro Mask is if you use acrylic/water based paints, it will affect the mask and begin to dissolve it.
I used to use this stuff for my canopies, but now use foil exclusively.
thanks to all for the tips.
I’ve been looking for a way to get satisfactory results and will try BMF next.
Thanks again