Hey Folks,
I actually had two questions (what you use to thin the artists oil paints) but the search feature ansered that question for me. What I do need answered is, do you still use a couple drops of dish soap to break surface tension as you would with acrylics, or is the thinner/mineral spirits/turpenoid/thinner-of-choice already do that for you?
Brian
No soap necessary Brian. The thinner and the oil work just fine together as is.
Excellent, thank you very much!
Brian
A little bit of dish soap is for sludge washes, which are poular with some aircraft builders.
Ok, went out today and picked up a tube of dark grey and burnt sienna plus some oderless mieral spirits. I do have a couple more quick questions:
Will the burnt sienna make for a good rust type color? In the tube it looks so, but is this more to replcate an oil or mud-like-dirt color? If no what color would you suggest for a nice rust type color (say for replicating rust runs on armor?)
So I understant you use a wash type opposite of what your base paint is. My problem is this: I use acrylics, BUT for the wing tops of my PBY I had to use an enamel because I could not find the proper color in acrylic. Will I be ok to still use the oil paints and Oderless mineral spirits AS LONG AS I lay down a protective coat of Future (since the Future is an acrylic) first???
Thats it for now. Thank you for your help so far!
Brian
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It will be fine for “old” dark rust. It will also be fine for light rust streaking, but don’t over-cook it.
Experiment a little with your grey on a test subject first. With some greys, there is a light blue pigment which can “bloom” or float to the surface while drying and can totally spoil the effect. It may look fine when wet, but wait for it to dry thoroughly.
Yes, the normal procedure in these situationis to lay down a coat of clear acrylic over the enamel painted areas.
However, it pays to test - you may find you don’t have to do this.
It may be advantageous to put down a coat of your enamel on a test subject (this can be anything - I often use an old broken CD cover) and see if your thinner has any effect on it.
I rarely paint with enamels, but I found that the type of odourless thinner (sorry - I think it’s a local Australian brand) that I’m using for washes won’t mx with Testors ModelMaster enamels, so I am presuming that dried and cured MM shouldn’t be affected. On the other hand, whilst (cured) Tamiya acrylics are impervious to the same thinner, Gunze acrylics are not, and can be somewhat dissolved.
Here’s a conundrum, Brian–if you seal ONLY the tips, the high-gloss of the Future coat will casue the wash to act differently on the gloss than on the flat acrylic.
Gloss finishes cause the wash to run off much more easliy, so your model will look like it has cleaner tips, instead of an even effect. You would be much better off using some acrylic Model Master Flat clear to cover the enamel part, or, altrately, coat the whole model in Future, as if you have one section in gloss, it will look different than the rest.
Personally though, I’m not a big fan of Future, and I never coat my whole model in any sealers if I can help it, so I would go with the forst option–a “spot” covering of flat.