I am building a Revel 1/48 SR-71. I have laid down a base coat of Tamiya Flat Black XF-1 50:50 with X-20A Thiner plus 3 drops of slow dry fluid retarder (the same ratios that I have used for years). This combo was sprayed at a distance of 2 to 4 inches at about 22 psi.
The problem is that the paint seems to be very fragile. By that I mean it can be easily scratched right down to the light colored plastic!
My question is what did I do wrong to not get a good solid coat of paint. Several more coasts of grays and blacks will be going on top of it. Would you suggest a different ratio; like 1 part thinner to 2 parts paint and redo it? Or, maybe clear coat what I have before proceeding?
I hate to say it, but you might want to think about using a different paint for such a large model that is going to get a lot of handling as you build it. Tamiya paint from the jars has always been extremely wimpy, with the flat black being even more so. That problem is the main reason I switched almost completely over to MRP lacquers. Their Matte Black is awesome, and all of them are extremely durable.
I have always had problems with X1 bonding to anything, even a base of Tamiya primer. It is really flat, but I have trouble with lifting after masking, scratching. Delicate stuff.
Have you tried Stynylrez flat black? Different people seem to get different results, but it works well for me.
I agree with Bill. Not only is Stynylrez black ( flat not the gloss) flat but it’s a sealer primer coat that all your other colors can go down on well. I’ve used it as flat black, even weathered over it with no complaints. But that’s me, it works, I’m happy.
Gentlemen, I want to thank you all for the education; actually for me it was more like a rude awakening. Somehow I thought that the Tamiya flat black would serve as a solid base coat for everything else.
I am experimenting on a mule painted with the same flat black. I will will spray it with a light coat of Tamiya Liqueur Thinner; maybe 2:1 thinner:Flat Black. I am also considering a clear coat, but I am concerned with how the multitude of blacks and grays will go top of it!
The best you can do with the Tamiya you want to use is prime first, scuff the primer so the black has a little added bond to it. Then put down the Tamiya black and finally seal it.That’s your best course of action. And if you’re going to seal with a clear flat then you don’t even need flat black to begin with unless the color tone of that black is the main desired effect. Tome most all paint should go over primer but acrylic is a must especially if masking for second and third colors.
Your other choice in sticking with that paint is to do the black last, all your other colors first starting lighest to darkest, then you have something under the black and no need to mask over the black. .
I am a paintbrusher, and I thin it down with water, and I get amazing results. I also never had a problem os tamiya acrylics being easy to scratch off. That is strange. On the diluting I am not so sure how much for an airbrush.
The rudders, engine nozzels and the ailerons on my recently finished SR-71 are painted in Tamiya Flat Black. The remainder of the model is painted in Tamiya Rubber Black. First I painted the model in Tamiya gray primer. The final finish on the model is Tamiya Flat Clear. I have no problem with either of the black paints flaking off, maybe due to the primer.
Makes sense to me,like both craft paints and the old Model Master acryl don’t stick to plastic for beans. The Acryl almosts falls off bare plastic. But use a good primer and either paint becomes strong and also hard and they stick to primer very well.
I am perhaps a little late to the party, but I would have to ask, how long did the paint cure for? And yes, I mean cure, not just dry.
In my experience, Tamiya flats are soft and easily scratchable hours after being “touch dry” which under some conditions can be as little as a few minutes.
If you gave it, say 12 hours, (preferably a bit more) I think you’d find the paint much harder to scratch.
