So, I use q-tips to clean enamel wash off of my models during weathering. However, I always seem to get fuzzy crap from the Q-tip stuck on little pointy bits that stuck up from the surface. How do you guys keep that crap off your model? Is there a brand of Q-tip that’s better or worse than the others?
I use the Tamiya q tips. I order them from Japan for $4 with free shipping on Amazon. They have a better shape, more dense and don’t leave fibers behind. Check them out. They are designed for modelers.
I use Tamiya Q-tips but not for removing washes, to expensive. I use plain old Q-Tips, and deal with any fibers that come off onto the model. If you take your time and being careful around the pointie parts the lost of fibers are very minor.
Cosmetic foam pads and swabs are better then the standard fuzzy cotton swabs for the very issue you are running into. You can find several shapes of foam swabs on ebay by searching for foam swabs. They are cheap, usually under $10 shipped for 100 or more.
Also for larger areas I use those blue shop paper towels you get at auto parts stores by the roll. They are not fiberous like standard paper towels and are softer and do not have patterns pressed into them, so they are smooth. I cut them with scissors into smaller 1/4 sheets for use. Tearing them will create fibers.
If I do get fibers snagged here and there, I use an old tee shirt cut down in smaller managable pieces, slighty damp with water and wipe down the area with fibers. This tend to gently remove them without leaving more.
Why do some modelers insist on the belief that because a product has a model manufacturer’s name or logo on it it must be made for modelers? It must be better!
Body filler, emory sticks, paints, and more all had their origins in a wider commercial application. They found an application and an enterprising model executive said we can extract more money if we put out logo on it and sell it as ‘for modelers’.
The last time I ran the numbers, ModelMaster paint thinner was more than 65 dollars per gallon, but you can buy the same stuff at the big box hardware store for about 12 dollars a gallon. Go to Pep Boys or O’Reilly for your body filler. Five bucks for a tube which will last many years. Go to Sally Beauty Supply for your sanding sticks.
Walgreens pharmacy sells some “Qtip-like” swabs in their Studio 39 line of products. These Dual-Tip applicators are same stuff as Tamiya, a dense poly material. One end is cone shaped, the other is rounded. Ken @ Badger Airbrush turned me on to them. Even though Badger sells a similar product in their cleaning set, Ken recommended these as a more economical alternative. $2.79 for a box of 75
You are right about companies putting their logo on stuff and up selling it. My wife works at sally beauty supplies and is always bringing home stuff I might be able to use. The last thing was a old display stand for tweezers that can hold about 20 but can hold other stuff besides that. They also have tons of different grits of files and sanders.
I use red sable brushes for cleaning up my oil & enamel washes. Or a dampened bit of T-shirt rag for the pre mix Pro Modeler/Flory type washes.
In regards to Mr Grune’s comparison of Testors thinner vs hardware store thinner. Yes the generic stuff is less expensive. But in my experience, the Testors stuff is far superior in results when airbrushing. I use that stuff (bought at Hobby Lobby for 40% off) strictly for thinning my enamels for airbrushing, and the hardware store stuff for cleaning my brushes and airbrush. It’s very much a case by case basis for name brand vs. generic items. I’d like to get some of those Tamiya swabs (again at HL for 40% off), but for non modeling use, due to their smaller size compared to the cosmetic types.
I’ve been using (and sharing) a 1 pound 5 ounce tube of MMM Acryl-Blue glazing putty for filler for years, and still have 3/4 of a pound to go. Also, at the hardware store, a quart of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) is about $8.89. Same material as Ambroid Pro-Weld, 5.95 - 2 oz, Plastruct Plasti-weld, 4.95 - 2 oz Testors #3502 plastic cement, 3.15 - 1 oz, Same-Stuff, 5.95 - 2 oz, Flex-I-file Plast-i-weld - 2 oz, and Tenax 7R plastic welder, 4.79 1 oz. Figures out to an average across these brands of $3.65 per ounce versus 28 cents per ounce.
Bondo spot putty.
Testors thinner.
I go straight to the t shirt for wiping.
I use Q tips for wiping out the bottom of the gravity cup on my Badger, but I wet it first in lacquer thinner and kind of roll it to minimize any fuzz.
It’s psychological. Tamiya = quality. It makes me feel good.
This is all excellent advice, I appreciate it. Just found some cosmetics q-tips at target for 2 bucks for 170, they seem to be a little better on the fuzz.
Well … I insert into ear and turn clockwise… flip end to end and repeat.
( Sorry, I could NOT resist ! )
I just use em and pick the fuzzy stuff off.
Haha, don’t poke your eardrum!
On a serious note, that’s what I’ve been doing…poorly, was hoping there was a better method