Having recently returned to modeling, I stocked up on paints. I decided I would use Testor’s Acryl line, as I had heard good things about the paint (airbrush ready, not much agitation required), and it had an exceptionally broad range of colors.
I have since run into two catastrophic problems:
Even low tack tape can lift up this paint. Surface was washed to remove mold release agents, primed and cured, then painted and cured.
Water from a tap washed away paint. Again, Surface was washed to remove mold release agents, primed and cured, then painted and cured.
I’ve had the same problems. I couldn’t find a way to correct this problem so now when I use acrylics I use Tamiya or PollyScale. They work much better than Model Master acrylics.
Make sure the plastic is clean. Also, try to use a primer.
I primed and painted a model then messed up the paint job… the only way I could get the paint off of the kit was sanding. I soaked it for 4 hours in a detergent solution… nothing… Used Lacquer Cleaner… Enamel Cleaner… alcohol… it was insane… nothing would pull that paint off.
I have had some similar experiences when I switched from enamel to acrylic paints, but I have also basically worked through them.
I found that by washing the parts first with warm soapy water and leeting them air dry, followed by priming with Testors enamel primer or grey enamel, that I could avoid almost all problems with Acryl paints lifting off of my models. I also spray a coat or two of Future floor polish on my models after painting is completed and has had time to dry, and then again after applying my decals. Future gives you a nice smooth surface and also protects the model.
I hope this helps some.
I haven’t had any problems with Testors Acryl at all - well, aside from the white, but then I’ve had troubles with lots of brands’ whites (both acrylic and enamel).
I had the same problems and that is the reason that I went back to enamels. But reading KMaier66 reply I will try again. Because I hate the fumes from the enamel paints.
I’m not crazy about Testors acrylic white, but with proper preparation and priming, and lots of thin coats, it’s worked just fine. It is, though, the paint I least like to use.
Glenn
I tried that brand of white a few days ago (and even started a thread). I’m glad to hear that a good primer and lots of thin coats will work.
I’m a little concerned with using a primer. I’m working in 1/72 scale, and I don’t want the primer to fill in the small, recessed details. Am I worrying too much?
Also, when you guys talk about primers, are you talking about something you buy to airbrush, or something out of a can?
I’ve been using Testors Acryl line on my pewter Battlemecs with great sucess. I have , however been using Armory and Citadel laquer primer first. The Acryl paint seems to stick with these primers VERY well. Even while decaling the figures, the paint doesn’t rub off or anything, even with the use of Microsol.
I use the Acryl clear flat and/or gloss over the top of them also.[8D]
Acrylics are notorius for this problem and it is usually attributed to no “tooth” for the paint to adhere to and that is why people have better results with the paint sticking to a primed surface which is slightly rough textured. Spraying over smooth plastic with acrylics is a gamble as the acrylic paint has no chemicals to bond to the plastic as do lacquers and enamels. If you don’t want to prime you could also carefully scuff the surface of the model with a green Scotchbrite pad to put light scratches in the surface for the paint to adhere to better.
I have been experimenting with Testors Acryl paints and they seem to work best thinned with Testors own “Universal” brand of thinner. It seems that the Acrylic formula Testors uses can be effected if water or Windex or anything else is used making it less likely to adhere to plastic. Its something to do with paint chemistry.
I prime with Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethanes and then use acrylics and have had no issues. I always give the paint (both primer and the color) a full 24 hours to “cure”.
I know they’ve received a lot of negative press, but as long as I prime the surface and use the Testor’s brand thinner, I don’t seem to have too many problems with MM Acryls. No more so than with Tamiya.
…one of those curiosities I’ve noticed about internet forums. On the one hand you have the “you do realize this is an old thread” crowd, and then on the other side of the coin ya have the “I wish people would learn to use the darn search function” bunch [:S]… just an observance!
To me, just so long as the passage of time hasn’t rendered the topic irrelevant, folks can resurrect 'em forever as far as I’m concerned. [:D]
Brett Green on Hyperscale had an article about the perfect thinner for Polly Scale paints. He used Polly Scale clear for his thinner. So, I got a bunch of Aeromaster clears a few days ago,and if I mix 2 parts MM paint to 1 part Aeromaster clear,I get a paint that is very near to Polly Scale Acrylic in performance.
If you have a HobbyTown near you, you might be able to get some of the last bottles of Polly Scale clears to help make your MM Acrylics behave more like PS does.
Or just use a good quality primer under it, like the Vallejo PolyUrethane or Alclad II stuff, then thin with Testors’ thinner, with an Extender/Slow Dry in the cup/jar.
I use my MM right alongside the PS and Aeromaster paints, using the same methods,and it works.
I wonder if maybe the problem is with how the paint is being applied.
When I airbrushed Polly Scale I would usually apply a couple light coats first and then after they dried I would spray on heavier coats. I thinned the Polly scale with distilled water only.
Testors Acryl seems to work better if the first coats go on “wet” and are only thinned with Testors Universal thinner. Using water or anything else seems to affect the adhesion.
