I had been using Pro Edge #11 blades for some time, the ones you can get in the dispenser. Never had a complaint.
Recently I ran out of blades and needed to get some, off to the local hardware store I went. Great! They have Xacto brand blades! Bought some.
I don’t like them at all! They don’t seem nearly as sharp as what I had before. Has anyone else noticed a problem with Xacto blades?
As soon as I can I’m going to the LHS and getting some more of the Pro Edge blades.
Not that I’ve noticed, although I tend to use Excel blades because they are thicker and don’t bend as much, and because they have some of the styles Xacto isn’t making any more. I do still use No. 11 Xactos because I have a huge supply—haven’t noticed any decrease in sharpness, but then these are old stock.
I also both sharpen and resharpen blades, including the much sharper surgical blades.
Maybe you got a bad lot?
Who knows, Tri.
What do you use to resharpen your blades? I’ve thought of trying it as I have a large assortment of sharpening devices but havent give it a go yet.
I have a variety of sharpening stones. Usually I just use a hard, unglazed ceramic plate. On occasion, I will use a black Arkansas stone if I want a very fine edge.
Some years ago I bought a big, bargain-priced assortment of blades from ModelExpo. I’m not sure who the actual manufacturer was, but they have the famed Xacto shape, and seem to work fine.
I’ve got a fair assortment of sharpening stones (coarse and fine India, black and white Arkansas, ceramic, diamond, etc.) that I use for chisels, gouges, plane irons, and my Swiss Army knife. If the blade is really dull, I usually start with the coarse India, then work through the fine India and the two Arkansas stones - using, if possible, a “sharpening guide” (from Lee Valley Toolworks) to keep the bevel consistent. I finish up with a leather strop charged with a honing compound called “Yellowstone.” (I bought a block of it years ago from Woodcraft; I don’t think it’s available any more.) I’ve spent a fair amount of time practicing traditional sharpening techniques, and I’ve gotten to the point where, if I work at it long enough, I can get a plane iron sharp enough to shave the hair off the back of my hand - the old timer’s test. (I’m not convinced that this is the best way to sharpen a blade, and it certainly isn’t the most efficient. But it’s kind of fun.)
I confess that, when it comes to Xacto (or Xacto-type) blades, I tend to think of them as disposable objects to be brutalized at will. I use them for scraping, hacking, trimming, and whatever, and throw them away when they get too dull for the next job I have for them. My father was a traditional woodworker; he used to say that “an Xacto knife isn’t a knife; it’s a piece of sheet metal with an edge on it.” I guess I tend to agree - but in my opinion the cheapness of such blades is their great virtue. I routinely subject them to treatment I wouldn’t dream of inflicting on any of my better tools.
I’ve used probably every brand and off brand of hobby knife blade made over the past 30+ years of modeling…I gone the resharpen route and found that with some it was acceptable but rarely worth the time invested. My blade source now is exclusively Excel.
Buying them in the bulk pack might seem expensive at the time but they are much cheaper…my first box of 100 lasted me a couple dozen years because I was stubborn about tossing them away when dulled…now I change more frequently and the results reflect that with a much cleaner cut on the objects I use them on.[2c]
I would like to second that. The next time you happen to be in Hobby Lobby buy a small pack and I think you’ll be amazed at the difference, like night and day.[:)] If they ever stock the bulk pack or I can find another source for them I’ll do as Hawkeye suggests and get them in bulk. Great product in IMO!
Patrick
Thanks for the tip. I’ll try some of those Excel blades the next time I get to the shop.
Jason Eaton just posted a rant on this very problem over at Roboterkampf.com . His blades, whiile saying Xacto, were in fact Chinese made and VERY poor quality. he took closeups of the blades to demonstrate the difference. They look the same but are not, so watch where your blades are coming from. The real Xacto blades are also now coming in a oil bath and seem to be anodized…
I bought a big box of a hundred blades years ago an Im still slicing my fingers open with them!
David
I use box cutters, the type that breaks into many parallelograms. there are different angles, some are approximately 30 degrees, they will fit into X acto handles.
box cutter blades are cheap, and they are thin. I can waste them and always have a fresh blade.
The best #11 blades are from Olfa. More expensive, but the highest quality and the sharpest.
You can get them at some local craft stores, or online from http://olfablades.stores.yahoo.net/9167.html
I started using these a few years back. The one I have is the 9mm Retractable Cutter, made by Stanley. It works great! You always have a supply of sharp blades, just snap off the dull one, and you’re ready to go ! The big selling point for me was the safety of having a retractable blade. Also, the tool is square, so it won’t roll off the table and stick in your foot, leg, etc…
I have a few scars from using the old Xacto, but none with the new tool!
I have not have that much trouble with the blades but the exacto handle sucks, the mechanism that holds the blade in place will unsrew it self all the time. It got really anoying so I switched to Excel handle that works.
I don’t know if I got a bad example or if it’s fake but it has a little sticker on the handle that says exacto. I did buy it at a local hobby shop so I thought that it would be good. I will stay with excel blades as they seem to bee much sharper but propably I will have some use for the approx. 10 exacto blades left.
Michael
Here’s a link to some suggestions about Exacto blades and knives from Vic Hamburger - how to sharpen blades, and make your own holders. I’ve followed his suggestions and been very pleased. I use a green sharpening compound available from Woodcraft in stick form instead of the red compound he suggests but I’m sure either will work.
http://www.hon30.org/tooltips.htm
…Bob
I stopped using Xacto blades about a year ago, after finding even new ones wouldn’t cut Tamiya tape cleanly when masking.
I thought it was just me at the time, and switched to Swann Morton blades, which are really sharp, don’t ask me how I know!
My canopy masking has improved dramatically as a result of the blade switch.
Karl
I bought a 100-pack of Techni Edge for $11.99. For .12 each, they will be my seam removers. My 15-pack of Excels (.40 each) will serve as my cutters. Taped handles let me know which blade I’m using.
My modeling hobby really plays well with my anal retention and OCD.
Heh…just sunk one 1/4 inch into the right index…it was very sharp!
Typing slow here!
I recently started using scapel blades and have really see the light of day. I got one handle and a bunch of plus with a tool lot i big and got them all for .99 cents. Love it to death. Cuts cape cleanly everytime and makes cutting styrene childs play. But i do watch it twenty times more than my xactos and exels because of how sharo it is.
Olfa #11 blades are great (made in Japan) and the Art Knife handle is superb. You can find them online or in a local Michael’s store (buy when the Sunday paper has the 40%-off coupon).
If you want a great scalpel handle, get the Veritas handle from Lee Valley Tools. Made for carvers; aluminium with a brass chuck.
Ouch!