I was decaling my model on top of a layer of future. I use Solvaset to get my decals to snuggle into crevices!
I found that damaging the future on my model. On a few small spots on my plane, the future (and underlying paint) were damaged. I used to apply decals directly onto Tamiya paints with Solvaset and had no problem…I was surprised to see Future react!
WOuld this be the water…(from the decal) or the solvaset?
Has any body else had the problem?
Any feedback would be great!
James
ps. Thank god this happend only to 2 small decals that are well hidden and easily fixed
My experience with setting solutions is very limited, so unfortunately I don’t have a good answer for you. However, did you wait at least 48 hours for the future to dry? It needs about this long to really ‘cure’.
The solvent (probably alcohol) in aggressive decal solvent setting solutions like Solvaset will attack some acrylic finishes if left on too long or applied to an uncured surface. I have read that some modelers have used Future like a setting solution with encouraging results. Also, the 48 hour cure time for Future is for a thin coat. A brushed on coat might well take longer to cure completely.
I agree, I’ve really found that Future takes quite a while to really cure well. I’ve messed up more than one paint job by getting fingerprints in the future after a day or two of drying…
Now, that’s true that Future can help with decals. I’ve used it a lot to reduce silvering, particularly on my airliners, applying the decals on a fresh patch of Future. But I’m not certain it would work as well in ‘difficult’ shapes…
I have experienced problems with Future and decal setting solutions on a couple of models. It’s rare, but it can happen. I don’t use Solvaset, but I have had Future react to Microsol & Microset. I airbrush the Future, usually 2 coats about an hour apart. I let the Future cure for a minimum of 48 hours before applying decals. Usually it works fine, but the occasional problem does occur. You didn’t describe the specific problem you have, but in my case the future turned white in some areas where the solution was applied. The good news is that if you let the model set for another 48 hours or so and then respray Future over the damaged area the white disappears and you can continue with final satin or matt finishes as usual.
I’ve never used the stuff. Frankly, I am a little chicken to try. Especially on a near finished model. Do you thin it like paint? How do you clean the airbusher after?
u dont need to thin it. i use an aztec a220 so i just pop off the jar and rinse with water. if u use internal mix, just rince the cup, and spray airbrush cleaner/thinner through the airbrush and TA DA!
I dont know mutch about on models, but when i wax a floor it takes a few days to really cure, some wax is worse then others for this. but I would think if you are spraying a thin coat on your model it should be given plenty of time to dry as well between coats 15 minutes should do but after your last coat wait at least two days,.
as far as spots and fingerprints left on touched wet wax, sometimes another coat will cover them up, sometimes you have a permenant personal touch to your work,LOL
good luck
When I forst got back into modeling, I was really excited to try some of the stuff I saw people doing with future-- letting aluminum skin show thru worn paintm etc… Unfortunately I ruined a few models before I learned 2 things: 1) to maintain fine detail, future needs to be airbrushed on, and 2) if you think it’s cured, it’s not. Wait another day.
well, it happened. a way for the aluminum skin is to put bmf on the surface, and then paint. when u wanna remove some paint, take a THIN roll of bmf, wrap it around your knife sticky side out, and roll over the plane. looks natural
I live in Holland and I couldn’t find Future here so I use an Acrylic woodstain from Rambo Pantserbeits which I mix 2 parts Acrylics to 1 part water. After applying on the model I leave it to cure for one to two days and I have no problems.
I use Tamiya Acrylics for painting the model.
