I applied the base coat of Model Master enamels (basically dark grey) without any problems but when I tried to flood this with Model Master Rust (weathering) the base grey dissolved instantly, as soon as the brush touched the tracks, exposing bare metal all over the place.
The only problem I can think of is that the thinner for the Model Master Rust wash was Ace Hardware mineral spirits. Maybe I should have used Testors airbrush thinner? But you know, even without being a chemist you’ll quickly notice that hardware store mineral spirits and the expensive Testors aibrush thinner…smell the same! Must be the same stuff.
The tracks are soaking in nitro thinner which will strip them clean so I can start over but don’t know what to do tomorrow. Trash Model Masters and switch to Tamiya acrylics for the grey base coat?
What thinner can be flooded on top of Model Master enamel coat without instant damage?
I prime my Friul tracks before painting the base coat. After that is done, I seal the paint with a gloss coat and let that dry for a day before I apply any weathering. I use MM & Humbrol enamels and haven’t had any problems.
The paint may have been dry but not cured. If your doing a wash, especially a heavy thinner based wash be sure that the first coat is dry and cured. This way the thinner won’t attack it. Usually 24 hours is a good waiting period.
I alternate paints. Acrylic for a base and then oils for a wash. This way the thinner doesn’t effect the base coat or vice versa. Now thinner on older tamiya vinyl tracks…that’s another story…
The Primer will allow paint to stick to the parts, other advantage to priming the WHOLE kit are:
1.) Same underlying colour
2.) Same surface texture
3.) Once yoy primed the Kit the underlying material becomes “nonexistant” as you are painting on top of the primer and not styrene, resin, vinyl, etc.
4.) Show flaws and inconsistencies prior to paiinting.
Make sure that your primer is compatible with all those materials though.
I know that most plastic models can be painted without priming, but after having done multi-material kits I cannot live without primer anymore.
Note:
Forgot to mention some metal parts are better roughed up with #400 sandpaper or steel-wool prior to priming.
MadModelFactory, I hold in my hands Tamiya acrylic “Flat Base”. Is that the primer you’re talking about? This is really thick, looks like greyish glue. If this is it, how do I apply it?
I use auto primer for my first coat. The rust color stays in all the nooks and crannys. Tnen I add the other colors, red brown, black, some gray for clay, and dry brushed steel where the tracks come in contact with earth, road wheels and sprockets. after i spray the auto primer on i let them dry at least 24 hours
I have had a lot of success using Tamiya’s Metal Parts Primer (Item #87061). It comes in a spray can; it works beautifully for me. You can order it from Squadron Mail Order, for something like $3.75 or so. Tamiya uses a lot of white-metal parts in their large scale kits, so my guess is they know what they’re doing. The only drawback to it is it’s clear; it’s hard to tell sometimes where you’re spraying it[banghead]. I apply two light coats and allow it to cure overnight. I can then either spray paint the tracks or brush-paint them. I haven’t had any trouble with weathering either, provided I don’t “scrub” the colors too much.
I use a vinegar and water wash for them to etch the surface a bit … the same as for PE ,… just to allow the paint to bite a bit … t then use car primer in spray can ( very light ) then paint to taste
I paint Fruil treads with humbrol #53 gunmetal,followed by a wash of
italeri rust thinned with regular italeri thinner.I have had no problems at all.
Chris