Has anyone had good results from this? I’m thinking of just doing the panel lines to make the detail show juat a little better.
i would have to go against it,i just recently saw a post here where someone did it,but when they dullcoated the finished model,all the inks were uncompatible and ran all over the model,plus wrecked the decals as well
There have been numerous threads about this in the past.
http://www.finescale.com/FSM/CS/forums/395123/ShowPost.aspx
http://www.finescale.com/FSM/CS/forums/350386/ShowPost.aspx
I’ve used silver sharpies to pick out details, and black to touch up spots. I find the black tends to look purplish in certain lights, not very realistic to my eye.
I haven’t had the urge to do pre-shading yet. I think I would prefer to do a sludge wash instead. It strikes me as being more controllable.
It would seem there is conflicting opinions on the matter. I looking for hard lines as a way to avoid the R/M raised line rescribe blues. I like trying new things, and since this project is both cheap and already a testbed, I figured why not try something else? However, I don’t what to try something that’s plain stupid.
i tried a sharpie once and when i used a dullcoat it bleed through and ruinrd the finish
turned into a purplish color
hope this helps
k
What? Are you planning on wasting your whole youth? I’m old enough not to want to do plain stupid things, but you’re still young! [:o)]
The shadow cast by the raised line should be sufficient, doncha think? [:P]
I was looking at the P-51 I did a long time ago and they disappear a bit on OD.
So, I gave it a try. I just did it to the engine cowling. I painted it with one coat from a spray can. I can still see some of the surrounding ink. This method is inconsistent at best. Some spots are completely covered, other spots it shows through. The paint is even so it’s definitely the amount of ink the sharpie put down. The good or bad news… a bug felt green pain was where he wanted to be.[:(!] I’m not looking forward to cleaning that up.
I’ve always wondered if this worked.
Will
For just the line itself, no. 20% success. If you want to do real preshading, no, 100% no. At least a bug ruined it so I have no excuse but to strip it and start again…it’s for the better.
I’m not really intrested in preshading though. I’ve never tryed it but I will in the future. I won’t try this one.
Will
I have used a sharpie twice for preshading.
One time with enamel paint and it worked fine. I had no problems what so ever.
the other time with acrillic, this worked ok, but Future over the acrillic paint lightly attacked the sharpie underneath.
Although this is not a big big problem (there where just a few runs) I am not sure if I would use a sharpie again with acrillic paint and Future.
Ok, here’s what it looks like after a day. This is enamel paint.
Hmm, seems like you sprayed a heck of a lot of paint and the sharpie ink still shows up a bit too stark. I’ve tried this technique before, with mixed results as well. I’ve had more success with airbrushing enamels for pre-shading. I normally spray black or an appropriate dark shadow color. Once dry, I begin airbrushing the color coats, from lightest to darkest.
I have to agree that it does not work well enough for panel line on wings and fuselage. I have been using it for the really small detail around cockpit wall and LG door frames, and LG struts. In the flowing photos, the affect does not show up as well as looking at the real part. The fine point marker is easy to outline the parts and after dry brushing has a nice look.
