P-40E painted in enamel olive drab.
Future acrylic coat applied and properly dried.
Decals applied.
Mixed 90% acrylic thinner and burnt umber/black acrylic paint.
The Problem: I got no capillary action whatsoever in the panel lines. After several attempts I dabbed a small amount of straight acrylic thinner to the panel line - nothing, no capillary action at all.
Any ideas as to what to do?
My suggestion is to take a look at these for pin washes,this stuff is almost fool proof.
Hopefully you can get this one worked out,but for this one or the next,check it out.
If possible, trying using oil paints with mineral spirits. I have found it works well when done over future since it isn’t acrylic.
Is your wash just dissolving into the future or is it acting like water color paint on glass? Spreading out and beading up and flaring upon drying?
Actually, none of those things. It doesn’t spread out and it doesn’t bead. It isn’t disolving either. It just stays right where the brush touches the spot on the panel line.
In other news: I’ve decided to forego any further testing and await the arrival of the Flory Wash. After watching YT Videos I liked what I saw. Will let you know how that works out.
Your welcome,hope it works for you.
Second what Mustang8376 suggested. Either oil paints or enamels thinned with enamel thinner or mineral spirits. Tamiya panel liners are enamel based, and are a convenient option.
Generally the panel liner should be of a different base to the protective clear coat. Acrylic clear coat with oil based wash, and vice versa. This minimizes the risk of crazing the clear coat.
Edwin, thank you, I will keep this bookmarked for future reference should this come back around my way again.
Looking forward to hear the results from this product.
Good luck, definitely let us know how things work out.
I’ve been using the Flory washes since 2016 and, they’re awesome.
Steve
Product scheduled for delivery on Thursday. Will work on it Friday and be posting some before/after photos on Saturday.
Perhaps you saw it on the videos,but don’t use brushes that might have been in lacquer or enamel it can contaminate the Flory
Oils for the win.. I used Windsor Newtons burnt umber for the overall wash, then Winsor Newtons dirty grey for the panels.
First time doing such a wash on bare paint and man, its really working out well!
Just remember, do it in small sections and use a thinner type brush.
But most importantly, whatever method you use, practice first on an old model and or part.
Happy Modeling,
Mike
WARNING: Unlike Phil Flory’s youtube video, do not use the product after you have placed decals on model.
I followed the video and had my decals applied. I broke one of the wing mounted decals while cleaning up
and that pi**ed me off eventhough I was able to salvage it.
This was my first time using the product and comments below are hetherto geared for/from first time user.
The only thing easy about using the product is the application process. Put it on with a brush and work it in.
After setting overnight, is where all the work comes in. Cleaning up is not a 15-30 minute venture. Its more
like a 2-3 hour campaign. And whether you get the actual look you initially had in mind is going to be a crap shoot. I did not get the look I was aiming for in the beginning.
If you are inclined to want a dirty/grimey - well worn look - this product seems to do the trick and its easy enough to achieve during cleanup - in fact, I would say a dity/grimey look is the default look you’ll get during cleanup process. Needless to say, I was not after a dirty look.
Be that as it may, I had no choice but to bite the bullett and proceed on. I used towels (sometimes moistened, sometimes wet) to wipe off the product as well as wet Q-Tips to get in hard to reach areas.
Will I be using this product again? At this point, I’m not sure I ever want to weather/panel line another model again. It did not come out looking like what I had envisioned before starting.
Before, during, and after photos follow:
Dryed overnight:
Finished:
So, despite my initial disappointment in results after wiping off product and cleaning up, I pressed on with finishing the model.
Next up, was air brushing entire model with Alcad Klear Kote Flat. I did that and let it set overnight.
When I looked at the model the next morning it actually looked much closer to what I had in mind initially. The Alcad not only dulled down the Acrylic Future shine, but, it appears to me to have dampered down the overly heavy weathered look. I was very surprised by this. So, at this point I installed the canopy, gun sight, and pitot tube. Then applied some charcoal stains for the exhaust, wing roots on the port side, flaps and elevators, as well as gun ports and ammunition panels.
