So I got a tube of perfect plastic putty. Don’t know why it took a month to show up but I got it.
I think though it is way to thick. I have had very poor results with it and found it hard to handle.
I got some of the pinpoint (syringe) applicators and the putty is so thick it is extremely hard to press out the ‘needle’. It is actually heavier / thicker than squardron green putty.
I will try to thin it down with water but its hard to do it in the tube. I will post back results later.
Bondo rules
You are applying it the wrong way. I use a thin narrow spatula applicator and apply it straight out of the tube and I let it dry. At about 30 minutes you can wipe most of the putty away with a damp Q Tip or a paper towel. The beauty about this putty is that you apply it to let’s say a wing root, let it dry. Then wipe off the join with no sanding necessary not destroying any scribed details.
I get more control wiping it away with a damp q tip when dry saving a lot of detail from being sanded away. And even when you do sand it, it produces a smooth surface that will not shrink as other fillers do.
I don’t know if something’s wrong your putty or if you are not correctly applying it, but Perfect Plastic Putty is one of top 5 inventions for modeling in my book.
So you can see what this putty can do, notice the putty that was wiped off the wing root area where a gap ran. The wiping done with a damp q tip and tap water produced an even join that did not require any sanding.
On this old Monogram Mustang, the wing gun panel was glued shut but left a very uneven fit and visible sag. The area was filled with PPP, allowed to dry and sanded smooth correcting the sagging and bad fit.
The PPP mixture is so fine that it creates a super smooth sanded surface.
http://imageshack.com/a/img633/8439/s3AQfe.jpg
Silver metallic finishes magnify any minor goof but as you can see here, the gap and sag are gone from the wing panel and root area.
It’s my go too filler, great stuff. Work with it a little and I bet you will get great results.
In my opinion I wouldn’t say it’s the greatest filler out there, but it certainly does work. I just wish I didn’t have to wait a day for it to dry. For this reason I often choose the super glue/baking soda trick first, if I can get away with it.
“We tried sir but it… well it still came out un even” [:$]
mine is dry and sandable within an hour or two after application.
I’ve seen a mention of issues with it on another forum where it was overly hard in the tube - it’s possible that there could be an iffy batch doing the rounds.
It’s not supposed to be hard in the tube. Sounds like old or a bad batch. Mine is the consistency of toothpaste and spreads out very evenly and smooth.
I know this is an old thread, and don’t mean to be resurrecting any zombies, but hope I can get answers about this perfect plastic putty.
I am interested to try PPP, mainly for its ability to be cleaned with water, thus avoiding sanding and loss of detail. I have a habit of washing my models prior to the paint job, to remove sanding dust and finger oils.
So, after PPP has cured, is it still soluble in water? Wouldn’t want the filled seams to get washed away [:D]. Hope those who use PPP can provide their input on this. Thanks!
It will dissolve if you wash it. If using under NMF like any putty you must seal it with a clear coat like Future so the surrounding finish will match the filled area.
I’ve been building models for over 50 years and have never washed a model except resin parts that tend to have mold release oils. I either use compressed air or a soft flat brush to gently remove dust and junk. To remove fingerprints prior to paint I lightly wipe the plastic down with rubbing alcohol.
If it thickens the tube add a few drops of distill water and shake, it will become soft again.
I use PPP all the time I have had it get hard in the tube but not unusable the tube I have now is a bit on the hard side. I put some on a piece of cardboard and add a drop or two of water and mix it in with a toothpick. The way I use it is I lay Tamiya tape on both sides of the seam lay the PPP in the seam wait about 15 minutes and wipe off the extra remove the tape after a hour then wipe it smooth sand as needed. Vallejo also makes a putty that is said to be just like PPP but comes in smaller tubes I plan to get some next time I order supplies.
I have had great results with the Vallejo putty, but it can get pricey!
So I stopped by the LHS on my way to work to get some more CA glue and a few micro drill bits and he has now started carrying Vallejo putty so I got me some it seems to be just like PPP but in a more controllable bottle. It is also softer than PPP is even from a brand new tube. Will test it out tomorrow.
Hi,
I’ve had trouble with Perfect Plastic Putty before too. Similar to what the OP noted mine was very hard while still in the tube, to the point where it was basically impossible to sqeeze it out of the tube. As such, I suspect that its possible that either it can sometimes go bad in the tube or that there are occassional bad batches.
PF
After a while I guess the moisture evaporates but add A few drops of water and shake up and work the plastic tube To blend it back to a smooth thin paste.
I must have gotten a bad bottle too (it’s a few years old). It completely dried up in the bottle. I added some water to the tube and it worked. It’s my understanding they have redesigned the bottle now, so it may be better now. Be careful with the Vallejo, I hear it dries rubbery like bathroom caulk…no thanks.
Have yet to try PPP, but in response to Lawdog’s post my experience with Vallejo is mixed enthusiasm. It’s great for small seams, but shrinks so a smooth fill takes multiple applications. For areas where I want to reduce panel lines that can be a plus.
I find it doesn’t sand well at all, as stated, it becomes caulking instead of a sandable filler. How does PPP feather out when wet or dry sanded?