Howdy from Texas.
This is still a Work in process obviously, but I wanted to get you guru’s opinions before I go any further.[8)]
I’ve never done a wash before, but that is the next thing on my agenda. This is only the second tank I’ve airbrushed, but I see some improvement. Cant do squiggle cammo yet.
Im sure the colors are off, but thats the kinda thing I need pointed out.
Feel free to be cruel.[B)]
I think your airbrushing look very good for a 2nd attempt. Much better than my 2nd attempt. I like what you have. The only two things I might look at is the paint looks a little to brown as opposed to a dark pazer yellow. Of course it depends on what you are going for. 2nd I use a dark flay grey for the tires so they jump out at you. They look a little shiny for me. Good over all though. Looking forword to seeing more.
cj95, I agree with Matt’s comments. my preference would be to use dark yellow as a base color, with brown and green camo. but still a good job! the wash will bring out more details. you may want to do some drybrushing too if you didn’t already plan on it. hope you are enjoying your AB.
good job for your second tank. I agree with the above comments on the color scheme, But all in all, not bad.
Do you have some PE or veil material for the open intake ports?
Also the long bars on the right rear fender are tanker’s bars. They are metal in color and not painted. If they do get paited, it doesnt last long.
Agree with the other comments. Which kit is this? It looks like a J version. Dragon?
Great comments guys.
I was pretty sure that I was a bit “too brown” as most of you had mentioned, but I thank you for confirming my suspicions.
Matt I agree the tires are a bit shiny, but I hope to tone them down a bit with some more weathering.
jcheung As Imentioned, I’ve never done a wash before, but htis should make an interesting test subject. I want to do some more drybrushing as you mewntioned before I future it and then wash.
ackman Ahh yes the ntake covers. I actually so have them ready and painted, but have not positioned them yet. Good eye though.
Also regarding the “tankers bar” I’m not sure what part you are refering too. The holder for the radio aerial? or behind that even?
Or are you referring to the little bars used to hold down equipment?
Your advise on what IS or IS NOT painted is exactly what I was looking for, but Im not sure what exactly I need to ‘unpaint’[:D]
Actually its a Tamiya ‘L’ without the mantlet spaced armor.
Great work I love it
Sorry man, my mistake I saw the shape and thought it was the tanker’s bar. I see it now on the other side. What I tought was the bar is the antenna holder. Sorry.
But I looked at them again, in front of the jack on the left side is a chalk block on top of a tool box. These are usually wooden in color. Jacks Ive seen both painted and unpainted, I think it counts on if the crew took the time to take it off before they sprayed the paint.
Also, the hatches are interior buff on the inside and the pads are either leather (early war) or field grey ( later).
I dont know what it is, but there is a little yellow showing up in the first return roller on the left side. It might be some kit plastic showing through.
I hope all of that doesnt sound too critical, it seemed to me you were asking for an objective eye.
looks pretty good for your second attempt with an Airbrush. A couple of suggestions:
Next time you airbrush, try to put a finer nozel on (if you have one) or tun the current nozel so that less paint will flow out of the AB (airbrush). Which Kind of AB are you using?
Make sure you perform your weathering in this order. Coat the model with Future or other gloss coat, put on the decals, then give it a wash. When the wash is dry, cover the model with Testors dullcoat and when that is dry dry brush. Drybrushing will not work with a gloss surface. Also, It took me a while to get the wash and drybrushing thing down, so just be patient, it will come with practice.
ackman Does not sound too critical at all. I was asking for ‘cruelty’. I appreciate the truth.
I’ll go ahead and redo the interior of the hatches as you suggested.
Regarding the jack…I was wondering the same thing. What color are they BEFORE they are painted over. (Lets assume my crew isnt totally lazy)
rebel I use a PaascheVL double action which might be a bit too complicated for me at this time.
I’m not too sure what you mean by a ‘finer nozzel’ as I only have one ‘tip thingie’ that goes on the front.
I supose thats something I need to invest in huh?
Let me get this straight. I put streaks and scratches and soot stains on AFTER the wash and dullcote?
Oops… I already placed some scratches and such already.
You can sometimes get in real close to spray a fine line. I have a Badger 200 which is a hybrid. I can control the amount of paint released. I can get as close as a couple of inches thus producing a very fine line. It seems to be helpful if you turn down the air pressure when spraying camo in close.
I thought it may have been Tamiya’s L, great kit. I’m almost done with mine in its monotone grey.
I used a paasche VL for years. It’s a good little air brush. Just be easy o the trigger. It’s really not all the complicated once you realize with just a push of the finger you control both air and paint flow. Air flow by how much pressure you apply on the trigger and paint flow by how far back you pull the trigger. With practice and patience (plus properly thinned paint) you’ll be able to draw pencil lines - or something real close to it.
Needles and nozzles are your next hurdle. You probably have a medium point needle, which is fine for just about all your tasks. There will be times when you want a broader spray which there is a needle and nozzle for. That is also true of a fine needle and nozzle. Each one comes with it’s own assembly and costs some dough - so be careful with them. replacements get expensive.
Do invest in some needle oil - it’s really good stuff . Also, if you spray acrylics - get some “Gold” extender. Some one on this forum turned me on to it and I really don’t mind spraying acrylics anymore. They don’t clog my nozzles.
Hope that helps a little. Can’t really comment on the tank, other than it looks like a nice build.
ITS PINK![V]
-Tigertankman
Good stuff mate! Umm I think everyone has pretty well said everything that needs to be said about the tank itself… although, I wouldn’t worry too much about the brownieness of your tank… it look panzer dark yellow to me…I think it will look fine with some dusting and washes and highlighting and the like! The thing about armour is that it’s never the same as the next guys, I am talking about the tank… the camo patterns were sprayed on in the field quite often… and paint colour variations were frequent! So don’t fret over it too much, I think it will look stellar once it’s done! Good luck with the washes and stuff… I don’t know too much about this FUTURE thinggy, but I’m sure it works, I use Pastels for my washes!
Looks good CJ95. The color looks like dark dunkelgelb to me so its fine. Don’t worry too much about the weathering. I only suggest considering the environment that want your Pz III to be from. For example North africa (desert) very dusty. Italy also dusty. Everyplace else would be darker and a little muddier. Winter vs summer should also be considered. Post more progress pics.
Pretty nice results. Most of the constructive criticism has allready been posted. Definitely a little too brown for the basecoat, so at least you know for next time. Also:
Generally speaking, you want to give your model a wash after the basecoating, and prior to any drybrushing.
Aside from what has been pointed out, the tires are too black. One technique that I have done that seems reasonably effective, is to mix some ground up artist’s pastel chalk into some flat clear, making something that looks like a mud slurry. I then brush this on over the tires and wheels, and when it all dries my nice black tires will then look properly dirty, as though the tank has been driving through the field.
All in all, your build looks pretty good.
Andy