My model is painted in acrylics and my acrylic washes don’t work very well. They go into the recessed lines, but everything wipes away after I have let it dry for a reasonable time. It also leaves a smudgy outline that I do not like. Is this because I am using acrylic on acrylic? shouls I use an enamel wash? Or is it because I did not future it?
What you should try is using an oil wash over your acrylic finish. Be sure you seal it first with a clear coat.
I use Turpenoid and oil paint. Works great. You can find both at your local arts and farts store…errr arts & crafts. Cheap oils and a small container of Turpenoid.
I use Artists Oils with a Future clearcoat. I thin the oils with Mineral Spirits, but Turpenoid also works well. The beauty of using oils is the slower drying time which allows more latitude than the fast drying acrylic washes. The basic colors I use for washes are Lamp Black, Paynes Grey, Raw Umber & Burnt Sienna. Small, relatively inexpensive tubes will last for dozens of models.
Regards, Rick
As with what others have said, the true trick to how a wash works is that there are two different paint types at work here. I use enamels over acrylic and enamels over lacquer. Enamels being the wash. I also have a little write up on the process: http://www.gamerabaenre.com/panel_line_wash.htm
What if my finish is aluminum and don’t want to mess up the finish with future?
Why would future mess up your aluminum finish? Making it too glossy when you want a semi gloss finish?
If that is the case, you can always spray a semi gloss or a flat clear when you finish the panel lines.
I guess I wasn’t sure if it would mess it up. I will give it a try[:D]
If I use the oils over future, how much should they be thinned? will it flow well by capillary action? If I get some outside the panel lines, what is the best way to wipe off the excess? sorry for so many questions.
Why should you use a Gloss coat? Would Flat coat not work?
I have a video of the process here: http://www.gamerabaenre.com/panel_line_wash.htm
Watch the last two videos on the page. I used napatha based lighter fluid, but you can use the same brand of thinner as your oil paints. I thin it to a fairly liquid consistency, and capillary action takes care of the flowing. If you get excess outside the panel lines, you can easily clean it up with a paper towel slightly dampened with the thinner you used.
Since the oil based products will not mix with the acrylic based future, if the future is properly cured, the excess is just wiped away with no harm to your paint.
As for why you need a gloss, a gloss coat helps keep the wash solution where it should be, in the lines. A flat coat places tiny little bumps onto the surface of the part and if you attempt to do a wash on a flat coated surface, the wash solution will bleed all over the part as if the part was a sponge. And then cleaning up the spill will be very difficult. If you want a flat finish,spray that after doing the panel lines.
thanks a lot for the help gamer. I will try what you said.
I will often have three different paint types on one model but I don’t worry about that. Future and then an enamel wash with about 80% mineral spirit. I’m pretty sloppy about applying it I just slap it on all over the place. Landing gear and panel lines or any detail I want to accent. I let it dry and then I use cotton swabs (good ones that stay tight) and tightly wadded paper towel with mineral spirits to clean the whole model varying how much I take off to change the effect. Then I carefully apply a lacquer flat coat when all the weathering is done. It doesn’t seem to react with the Future for some reason. [%-)]
That’s what works for me. [8D]